Brachypelma Boehmei Molt

July 11, 2014July 11, 2014 / cancerides / 2 Comments

It’s been Tarantula Molt Central here, with 14 of my Ts molting in the past week (and several more in premolt). The 80º+ temps in my tarantula room have even my slowest growers sporting new skins, and it’s been amazing getting to watch several go though the long, exhausting process of molting.

Since getting my Brachypelma boehmei (Mexican Fire Leg) in January of this year, I’ve been eagerly awaiting the first molt. The collector I bought it from admitted that the poor girl had taken a fall a few months before I purchased her, and although there was no visible damage, I worried that there might be something wrong internally. Still, for months, she ate like a champ, relentless chasing prey across her enclosure and quickly devouring her meals. When her pre-molt fasting began, I kept an eager eye out for the result.

My B. boehmei on her back as she prepares for a molt. Many inexperienced keepers have thought their pets dead when they see them like this.

A week ago, I watched as she laid down a molting mat and flipped over to start the long process. Six hours later, she sported a new, much more vibrant skin suit…

…and a nasty-looking bald spot on her abdomen. Apparently my fears about her fall having internal consequences weren’t unfounded (although it could be a coincidence). The spot is a pale orange in color and about 6mm across. It definitely looks as if there was some damage in this area, as the edges are uneven and a bit crusty, leading to the imperfect molt.

My B. boehmei in the act of molting (the exuvia is on the left, the T on the right)

My B. boehmei sporting a new suit.

I held my breath as I waited to see if she would pull through, or if this defect would prove life-threatening. So far, so good. Although the spot looks nasty, she is moving around fine and seems to be hardening up nicely. I will be careful when feeding her to be sure that she doesn’t get too distended, which could put too much pressure on this potentially weak spot in her abdomen.

The bald spot on the abdomen, I’m guessing, is from an internal injury caused by a fall.

Hopefully, my girl’s next molt, which I suspect wont come for several months, will go smoothly and she’ll lose this nasty patch. I plan on trying to feed her soon, and I will post how it goes.

Fingers crossed…

H. incei gold Feeding Video

June 1, 2014June 1, 2014 / cancerides / Leave a comment

I recently acquired a trio of juvenile/sub-adult H. incei golds, and I immediately discovered what a truly beautiful and interesting species they are. These lively little dwarfs sport gorgeous gold and orange tones that make them wonderful display spiders. They also like to decorate their enclosures with copious amounts of thick webbing, making them one of the more prolific webbers of the species I keep.

One of my H. incei golds after being housed. Not the best picture, as the flash has washed out it’s colors.

All three have been excellent eaters, snatching medium crickets from the mouths of their burrows with lightning speed. Although they were furnished with identical enclosures with cork barks and starter burrow holes dug into the substrate, only two of my H. incei golds adopted these as homes. Both of these two dug deep burrows before lining the opening of their dens in a liberal coating of silk.

The third built what I can best describe as a silken teepee over its cork bark hide. This specimen did not dig, but instead sits on the surface, sometimes beneath its hide, waiting for prey. It makes for a wonderful showcase animal, as it is more often than not visible. It is this T that is featured in the feeding video.

A modified Ziploc container. This H. incei dug a deep burrow; the circle marks the lower chamber.

I keep my H. incei golds in the same temperatures as my other Ts; high 70s during the day with low 70s at night. I also keep the substrate for these guys on the moist side (not wet), by sprinkling water on the surface twice a week. They are currently eating one medium cricket every three or four days.

While feeding my surface-dwelling incei, I decided to get a bit of video with my cell phone. Below is a brief clip of my little guy snatching up a cricket. My apologies for the raucous soundtrack; it is covering up my daughter telling me a story in the background. 🙂

For lovers of dwarf tarantula species, or even just those who want a gorgeous, heavy-webbing T, the H. incei gold makes a wonderful pet.

B. hamorii (Mexican redknee) – A Tarantula Icon

May 25, 2014February 23, 2020 / cancerides / 10 Comments

NOTE: This article was published before the genus revision that revealed that the species being sold as B. smithi in the hobby was actually B. hamorii. This article refers to B. hamorii, but husbandry for both species would be identical.

When I was about six, my father used to take me to a local pet store on occasion so that I could check out the animals for sale. Although I was certainly interested in the puppies, gerbils, guinea pigs, and snakes, the highlight of the trip was always a large Brachypelma smithi, or Mexican redknee tarantula, kept in an aquarium at the back of the store. As a boy who was terrified of spiders, I couldn’t help but to be utterly fascinated by this amazing animal. Although it should have been the stuff of nightmares for me, I couldn’t get enough of it.

Fast-forward a few decades… With my T collection growing, I decided that I had to have a B. smithi. After all, this was arguably the animal that kicked off my fascination with Ts all those years ago, and it was still widely considered to be one of the most popular tarantulas in the hoby. As this species is known for its very slow growth rate, I decided not to pick up a sling and instead searched for a juvenile to young adult female. The B. smithi is thought to be one of the tarantulas with the longest longevity, with some folks suspecting female could live 40 years or more. I’ll admit, it’s a little mind-blowing to think that a pet could outlive me!

My Brachypelma smithi female shortly after I acquired her in December of 2013.

I finally located my girl when my favorite tarantula dealer, Jamie’s Tarantulas, had her cyber-Monday sale last year. My 3″ B. smithi female arrived in early December, and she was gorgeous. For her temporary housing, I used a Sterilite 12 quart plastic storage box, filling it with about 2″ of dry coco fiber. Although I normally use cork bark for a hide, this time I bought a much more fancy resin cast log. A small ceramic water dish was supplied for fresh water. This is a tarantula that thrives in a dry environment, so I do not mist or moisten the substrate.

Check out my female B. smithi below!

B. smithis are generally known for being calm and docile (although there are always exceptions to these “rules”), so I was surprised to discover that my new acquisition was actually very skittish and very fast. My first time opening her enclosure, she nearly bolted out; this is why you can never let your guard down with any T. For the first two months I owned her, she was quite reclusive, rarely venturing out from beneath her log. When she did emerge, the slightest disturbance would send her scurrying for cover.

The first cricket offered was still alive and kicking the next morning, and I actually saw her bolt from it at one point. It was obvious she was not yet completely comfortable in her new surroundings. I waited a couple of days, then offered her a dubia roach with its head crushed (Yup… gross, but it keeps them from burrowing and playing dead). I placed on its back in front of the opening to her den in hopes that she would sense it when she ventured out. It was gone the next morning. Although I continued this process for a few months, she now readily takes live and kicking large crickets.

B. Smithis are New World tarantulas and, as such, use urticating hairs for defense. When stressed, they can kick these irritating bristles from their abdomens, causing itching, burning, and discomfort to any potential predator (or well-meaning keeper) mucking with them. I’m fortunate in that my girl doesn’t seem to be prone to kick yet. She also calmed down a great deal from when I first acquired her. Now when her cage is disturbed, she will usually just scurry to her den and perch herself on top of it. She spends the majority of the time out in the open now, which is great, as she really is a beautiful T.

Like my other Ts, my B. smithi is kept at high 70s during the day and low 70s during the night. She generally eats two 1″ dubia or three large crickets a week. By late February, her abdomen was quite plump, and I cut back on the feeding in hopes that premolt would be coming soon. Finally, in mid-April, she molted.

My 3-4″ B. smithi female after a molt. The white patches on her abdomen hint that she might have experienced a little trouble.

The discarded molt (exuvia) from my female B. smithi.

As she molted inside of her den, I unfortunately did not get to witness the process. I did, however, notice that when she emerged, she had two shiny white spots on her abdomen that probably signified that she experienced a bit of trouble with the molt. I waited a couple weeks before offering her a prey item, and was relieved when she snatched up the first cricket I dropped in. Although she seems to be fine, I will definitely be paying extra attention when it comes time for her next premolt.

My 3.5′-4″ B. smithi perched atop its log hide after a recent meal.

It might have taken dozens of years, but I finally have my B. smithi. With their ease of husbandry, generally even dispositions, and undeniable beauty, there is a reason this species has been the face of tarantula keeping for decades.

DKS (Dyskinetic Syndrome) in Tarantulas

May 24, 2014November 15, 2014 / cancerides / 12 Comments

In February of this year, I purchased an A. insubtilis which I later had sexed as a male. After being housed in his new enclosure, this gorgeous guy settled right in, eating immediately. He proved to be a voracious eater, quickly stalking medium-sized crickets and violently subduing them before feeding. After a couple months, he stopped eating, signaling the beginning of his premolt.

My 2″ male A. insubtilis shortly after being acquired in February.

Three weeks passed, and I came home to discover that he had molted while I was at work. I noticed that his exuvia was still slightly attached to his abdomen, so I moistened the area and used a cotton swab to gently remove it. After a week, he took down and ate his first pre-molt meal. Despite the slight molting difficulty, the little guy would be fine.

Or so I thought.

My A. insubtilis just moments after I used a Q-tip to remove a stuck patch of Exuvia from its abdomen.

While feeding some of my other Ts last week, I noticed that my male A. insubtilis was walking a little strangely. As he lifted each leg, he seemed to shake it as if something was stuck to his toes. I watched him for a bit before chalking it up to normal T behavior.

The next day, it was much worse, and I realized that my poor guy was exhibiting signs of DKS, or Dyskinetic Syndrome. DKS is a series of symptoms characterized by jerky motions, loss of coordination, and an inability to eat. It most often ends in the death of the tarantula. Although no one is completely sure what causes DKS, some theories are pesticides (including flea and tick treatments for dogs and cats), micro organisms infecting the T, mold, or other toxins.

I’m not sure if the molt had anything to do with his development of DKS, or whether it was other factors that caused it. I only mention it as it was something abnormal that occurred just before he started exhibiting signs.

Below is a video of my poor A. insubtilis exhibiting signs of DKS. Notice the movements each time I touch the side of the enclosure. Normally, I wouldn’t mess with a T in obvious stress, but in this case, I wanted to get a short video for records and to show others. It’s not fun to watch, and it’s a bit graphic (my wife can’t stand to see it).

My little guy is definitely losing the fight, and although I put him into a tarantula ICU (deli cup with moist paper towels and elevated humidity), he’s starting to slow down and curl up. I fear the “death curl” is not far behind. As I do not like watching anything suffer, I’m considering euthanizing him before it gets worse.

Click HERE for an an update on this T.

The Poecilotheria metallica – Yes, Tarantulas Can Be Beautiful

May 24, 2014April 22, 2016 / cancerides / 15 Comments

When I first started researching the different species of tarantulas currently available in the hobby, I stumbled across a photo of a Poecilotheria metallica (common name “Gooty sapphire ornamental”). This stunning tarantula sported an amazing metallic blue coloration with a gorgeous fractal pattern on its abdomen and vibrant yellow marking on its legs. The tarantula in the photo was so mind-blowingly beautiful, that I immediately assumed that it was just a clever photoshop job. After all, there was no way a tarantula could be this blue; the picture had to be a fraud.

My 1.75″ P. metallica sling a week after its last molt. It is finally displaying some of those gorgeous blues it will sport as an adult.

It was close to a week later when I encountered another amazing photo of this species, and this time, I decided to do some investigating. Not only did I learn that this was, indeed, a real animal, but also that it was one of the most coveted species in the hobby. Despite being quite readily available, this species still commanded prices as high as $100 for a small sling. Also, although captive breeding efforts provided for healthy numbers in the hobby, this incredible animal is critically endangered in the wild. Limited to a 100 square kilometer region in India, its habitat is being threatened by deforestation.

Although these tarantulas are undeniably pretty, they are still members of the Poecilotheria genus. As such, they possess blinding speed and, though usually reluctant to bite, very potent venom. At the time, I decided that that I needed some more experience with faster species before trying my hand at keeping a P. metallica, so I moved on to other species.

Several months later, my wife took me to a semi-local exotic pet store called Cold Blooded Pets & Supplies for my birthday so that I could peruse their stock of Ts and choose a few for my gift. It just so happened that they had several P. metallica slings among their rather diverse stock. Needless to say, we left with one that afternoon.

Gorgeous … and So Fast!

Although I’ve found most poecilotheria slings to be high-strung and skittish, my P. metallica is particularly prone to make dashes whenever disturbed. Anyone who thinks that they could possibly react in time to a fast fleeing T should watch this little bugger zip around its enclosure four or five time in the blink of an eye. I’m extra cautious when opening its enclosure for feeding or maintenance, as to lose focus could result in an escape.

Like my other pokies (nickname for Poecilotheria), my P. metallica has been growing quickly, having molted two times since late February and picking up .5″ in growth or more. For an enclosure, I use a tall Ziploc Twist ‘n Lock container modified with numerous ventilation holes allowing for good cross-ventilation. Because this is a an arboreal species, the height offered by the enclosure is more important than floor space. Although it is provided with cork bark hide with a thick faux vine for climbing, it tends to just stay at the top of the enclosure. As P. metallica’s are known to be particularly photosensitive, I keep this T in a darker corner of a shelf where it is shielded from light a bit.

The current enclosure for my 1.75-2″ P. metallica sling.

Although kept at the same high 70s day/low 70s night temperatures, I do keep the humidity a bit higher for this T. I moisten, not soak, the substrate a bit once a month. To do this, I don’t spray as it would drive the little guy nuts. Instead, I dribble some water on the substrate. Besides that, a water dish keeps the humidity inside the enclosure slightly higher.

My P. metallica is a great eater, consuming two medium sized crickets a week. The only time it refuses food is when it’s in premolt. As it does not like bright light, I usually drop a cricket in before bed, and it will grab and consume it overnight.

Ventral shot of my P. metallica sling. Despite the poor quality of the shot, you can still make out the yellow banding.

Update: 2/27/2016

As it’s been over a year since this post, and my P. metallica has been doing quite well. Time for an update!

The P. metallica, suspected female, has molted three times since the original post and is now about 4″ in total length. Currently, she is kept at temperatures between 80° during the day and about 74° at night. She eats two large crickets a week and has proven to be a lively and proficient hunter.

It’s worth noting that the P. metallica went through a lengthy period of almost six months in which she didn’t molt at all (previous to this, she would molt every two months or so). This period began in November and lasted until May and coincided with the winter months. It was a particularly cold and brutal winter in which the furnace was running constantly. Although the temps in the tarantula room never dipped below 70°, the humidity was in the teens for several months. The P. metallica had a water dish, and I would periodically moisten the substrate, but I’m convinced that these lower humidity levels and slightly-lower temperatures triggered some type of response in the specimen that led to the lengthy time between molts.

P.-metallica

It should be noted, however, that the P. metallica DID continue to eat during this period. However, due to the fact that its abdomen was quite large and distended, I reduced it’s feeding schedule to one cricket every week or so. Therefore, it appears that although it didn’t show any signs of distress as the humidity levels became less than ideal, it certainly slowed its growth rate a bit.

When it did finally molt, it was time for a rehousing. For its next home, I used a repurposed Sterilite “Showoff” container (15 1/4″ L x 9 3/4 W x 11 1/2″ H), which I ventilated with several holes in the sides for cross-ventilation. After packing in about 3″ of coco fiber, peat moss, and vermiculite substrate, I added a water dish, a cork bark flat, and some plastic plants. I also added some long fiber sphagnum moss to hold moisture. When winter approaches, this new enclosure will make it much easier to maintain a micro climate with higher humidity.

Temperament wise, I think that I got lucky with this one. Once very skittish and photosensitive, she now sits mostly out in the open and tends to crouch down rather than bolt when disturbed. That’s not to say that she doesn’t have frantic speed bursts left in her; she can still run when startled.

Poecilotheria metallica

A Stunning Species for the More Experienced Keeper

When someone gives me that incredulous look after I say a tarantula can be beautiful, I usually show them photos of P. metallicas. Even to folks who don’t “get” tarantulas, they are undeniably pretty. Many keepers count them as the most beautiful species available. Still, they are Poecilotheria, and as such, are not a beginner species. This T has slightly more involved husbandry requirements, and its blinding speed and potent venom make it a potentially dangerous pet for an unwary keeper. For those experienced with fast-moving arboreal Ts, the P. metallica is a must for the collection.

For more information on this gorgeous species, please visit Arachnoboards and search for P. metallica care.

Tarantula Enclosures – Premium and DIY

April 19, 2014January 13, 2015 / cancerides / 20 Comments

Perhaps one of the most fun facets of T keeping is the never ending quest for the perfect tarantula enclosure. Whether you’re a money-is-no-object keeper interested in assembling the most aesthetically pleasing enclosures, or a more frugal enthusiast who wants to save precious funds for future spider purchases, there are literally thousands of options available. Once you are thoroughly hooked on the hobby, you will find yourself wandering the container section of your local Dollar Tree, Walmart, or craft store measuring up plastic canisters for size, price, and alter-ability. And, for your “showcase” spiders, there are many attractive options that won’t break the bank.

As I’ve done a lot of experimenting with enclosures, both professionally constructed and “found” varieties, here I will present some of the ones I’ve continued to use along with some of the pros and cons. These enclosures are listed in no certain order.

Adult Tarantula Cage from Jamie’s Tarantulas

Retail: $64 (With substrate, moss, cork bark, and water dish, $84)

For keepers looking for a more attractive home in which to house their Ts, but who don’t want to pay upwards of $100 for a cage, Jamie’s acrylic tarantula enclosures are fantastic. These 8″x8″x14″ cages are perfect for most large tarantulas sized 4″ to 7″. She offers the option of purchasing just the cage, or you can get the Complete Cage package with all the fixings for $20 more. The crystal clear acrylic offers complete viewing from all angles, and the hinged door can be locked for security. Also, I have found these enclosures to be much more durable and well-constructed than other acrylic enclosures I have used.

Acrylic tarantula cage from Jamie’s Tarantula – Terrestrial set up.

Acrylic tarantula enclosure from Jamie’s Tarantula – Arboreal Set-up

Even cooler, the cages are specially designed so that they can be used as both terrestrial OR arboreal cages. I have three of these beauties; two house terrestrial Ts, and the other is set up for my arboreal A. metallica. The air vents on both sides allow for good cross-ventilation while keeping in precious humidity. Both sizes are offered in either Terrestrial and Arboreal versions.

Spiderling and Juvenile Enclosures from Jamie’s Tarantulas

Retail $7.95-$13.95

For slings and juveniles, Jamie also offers Spiderling and Juvenile Enclosure kits. These wonderful and affordable cages come with all of the fixings (substrate, moss, silk plant, cork, and water dish for the juveniles), and they are often offered as a package deal with a sling or juvie. I’m particularly enamored with the spiderling kits, as the offer great visibility and seem to limit the chance for escape when opening for feeding. When buying from Jamie’s, I also find it incredibly convenient that I can get my sling and the enclosure at one place.

Spiderling and Juvenile Enclosures from Jamie’s Tarantulas. These are sold as kits with all of the fixings.

Exo Terra Nano Glass Terrarium

Various sizes /Retail: $34.99-$67.99

These all-purpose terrariums are gorgeous, and with prices starting at $34.00 (or even less expensive if you catch them on sale on the Petco website). The black framing looks very sharp, as does the foam faux-rock background. These tanks also offer two ways to access them, with both a front door and a removable screen top.

It should be mentioned, these are not designed exclusively for tarantulas, and some models suffer from some design issues that make then less than ideal. For example the unique venting system beneath the door prevents owners from packing in more than a couple inches of substrate in the bottom. With 5 or more inches of space between the top and the substrate, a plump climbing terrestrial T could fall and injure itself.

An Exo Terra Nano Tall (left) and regular 8 x 8 x 8.

Also, the screen top can be a problem for terrestrial Ts whose legs can become stuck in it. To combat this issue, the cage top can be altered by ripping out the screen and replacing it with Plexiglass with several breathing holes drilled into it (see below).

The top of a Exo Terra Nano, modified for a terrestrial T. The screen has been removed and replaced with ventilated Plexiglas.

The Exo Terra Tall, on the other hand, makes a fantastic home for an arboreal with no modifications. The 8″x8″x12″ tall enclosure is the perfect size for a medium arboreal species, and makes for a stunning display. For species that require a higher humidity, you can block off part of the screen top with saran wrap or plastic (as I have done with the one housing my P. vittata), to slow evaporation. And, for a T who may get 7″ or longer, the larger Exo Terra Mini Tall (12″x12″x18″) will do. These larger models feature two opening doors, which can make cleaning or feeding faster species a bit easier.

Kritter Keepers/Pet Keepers (both trademarked and generic)

Various sizes / Retail: $3.99-$19.99

These clear plastic containers with colored plastic lids are produced by several different companies, come in many different sizes, and are made to house small animals including hermit crabs, fish, reptiles, and insects. They also happen make quite good homes for tarantulas and have become a staple for keepers looking for attractive, low-cost enclosures.

Medium Sized Kritter Keeper/Pet Keeper. I use these to house my juveniles.

These nifty little cages are great for burrowing Ts due to their depth, and the covers have wonderful little windows on the top that double as a feeding hatch. They can be found online through Amazon and Petco.com (Once again, Petco’s sales and free shipping can really make these a steal), and Walmart even carries the medium sized cages in their fish section.

As for cons, there are only a couple issues. First, larger holes where the handle connects to the lid, and another round hole meant for running tubing, can both be potential escape routes for small and determined Ts. It’s best to fill these three holes up with a little hot glue before using the enclosure. Also, because the entire lid is vented, water and moisture will evaporate quickly in the winter months. To combat this issue, use plastic wrap and tape to close of some of the vents.

Sterilite Plastic Storage Containers

Numerous sizes / $1-$15

The go to enclosure for T enthusiasts with huge collections. These plastic containers come in just about every imaginable size, and they are generally quite inexpensive, with many of the larger sizes going for less than $3. Sterilite even makes a set that locks securely and is designed to stack (see photo below).

To make the ventilation holes in cages meant to house slings, there are a couple alternatives. The easiest is to use a soldering iron (the one I use was about $10 on Amazon, and has been a dream). The tip of this iron comes to a conical point, meaning that you can use various levels of pressure to make any size hole you need. I can use just the tip to make tiny holes for small spider enclosures, or use more pressure to make up to .24″ holes for larger ones.

A more time-consuming way to create the holes is to heat a very small nail on an oven burner, pick it up with pliers and use it to melt holes through the plastic. I will actually use several nails on a burner so that I always have a hot one ready. You can usually put three to five holes in before having to trade nails. A word of caution: make sure to have adequate ventilation, as the plastic fumes can be dangerous.

For cages meant to house larger Ts, a power drill is the easiest and fastest way to perforate the plastic for ventilation. When positioning holes I try to create cross ventilation by putting some holes lower on one side and higher on the other.

A Sterilite plastic container modified to house tarantula slings.

For a step-by-step tutorial on how to create a custom enclosure using Sterilite containers, click!

Mainstay Plastic Canisters

2-Quart and 1-Gallon Sizes / $1.99-$3.99

I love these plastic canisters. The 2-quart size is perfect for juvenile arboreals or terrestrial burrowing species. These inexpensive plastic jars can be found at any Walmart, and are easily ventilated using the hot nail method. As I wanted adequate ventilation, I used a 2″ hole saw and aquarium silicone to put a 2″ inch vent in the lid.

Plastic canister modified with lid vent and side ventilation holes.

Ziploc or Tupperware Plastic Containers

Various sizes / small 3 for $3.57 / medium 2 for $2.57

There are dozens of these types of containers on the market; I just happen to prefer the Ziploc Twist ‘n lock for the wonderful screw on caps. Like the other plastic containers, these can be vented using the hot nail method. The small containers are perfect for terrestrial slings, and the taller medium sized ones are great for arboreals in need of climbing room.

Ziploc container modified to house arboreal tarantula.

At the time of this blog, I have several other containers that I will be altering and trying out as enclosures, and I will surely add to this list as I discover new possibilities.

Also, I should point out that I did not include two of the most popular enclosures used by hobbyists. Clear plastic pill bottles and plastic deli cups are immensely popular due to their very low cost and practicality, and many keepers swear by them. It just so happens that I currently use neither, as I prefer Jamie’s spiderling enclosures. However, as my collection grows, and I get into breeding, this is likely to change.