Poecilotheria Regalis (Indian Ornamental)

The Poecilotheria regalis originates from India, hence its common name of “Indian Ornamental”, and it is probably the most commonly kept of the Poecilotheria genus of tarantulas. This is an arboreal species that, in its natural habitat, lives in tall trees where it catches flying insects as its prey. In captivity, they are a hearty and gorgeous display tarantula for any keeper experienced with fast arboreal species.

My 3" juvenile P. regalis male.

My 3″ juvenile P. regalis male.

A word of caution…

Although the regalis is recognized as being one of the “calmer” members of this genus, it is still blindingly fast and possesses “medically significant” venom. This is not an animal to be trifled with or underestimated. I have seen my juveniles run several laps around their enclosures in blink of an eye. This is definitely an animal that can move faster than human reflexes can react.

In the case of  the P. regalis, when disturbed it would much rather hide  or escape than attack. Their fractile-like patterns serve as amazingly-effective camouflage, so standing still can likely help them to avoid detection in the wild. When approaching any of my Poecilotheria for feeding or maintenance , I tap the enclosures a couple times until I see them either hunker down or scramble to a hiding spot. This hopefully prevents me from spooking or surprising the Ts, which could cause them to bolt frantically around the cage (or, even worse, onto me).

Keeping my guy comfy (while keeping my fingers safe).

To reduce the risk of bite, I keep my P. regalis juvenile in a Sterilite Large Nesting Showoff plastic storage bin modified with cross-ventilation holes for airflow. The container is a bit larger than what I would normally use for a specimen this size, but I like to give myself plenty of room to work when feeding or performing maintenance on my large, fast arboreals.

The enclosure is deep as well as long, as this species requires more height than floor space. I provide it with a cork bark slab, which is put at about a 45 degree angle, as well as some plastic plants and rocks for hiding places. A water bowl is also supplied.

With a max diagonal leg span of 7″, the P. regalis is a good-sized T. This guy will likely end up in a 5-10 gallon-sized enclosure as an adult. Again, I will use something that gives me plenty of room to work for when it comes time for cleaning or maintenance.

Custom enclosure set up for my 3" P. regalis juvenile male.

Custom enclosure set up for my 3″ P. regalis juvenile male.

For substrate, my P. regalis is kept on a coco fiber/peat moss combination with moist sphagnum moss placed around the base of the cork bark to provide extra moisture.  I also moisten the substrate a couple times a week; this coupled with the water dish keeps the humidity inside the enclosure at an sufficient level. I do not obsess over exact humidity levels, and so far my Ts have been doing just fine. This species does, however, benefit from higher humidity. For temperatures, my P. regalis is kept at low 70s to mid 80s.

A fast-growing arboreal with a great feeding response.

My P. regalis has demonstrated a fast growth rate. They are good eaters, and it’s quite amazing to watch them hunt a prey item. I give my 3″ juvenile two medium/large crickets a week. This species seems to have little trouble taking down larger prey items. I procured this particular tarantula in February, and at that time it was about 2″ long. It has molted twice since then, and it’s now 3.25″ long.  I also have smaller P. regalis that I purchased as a 1.25″ sling in January. After three molts, it is now 2.5″.

This is the modified Ziploc plastic container I use to house my 2.5" P. regalis juvenile. He will likely get rehoused after his next molt.

This is the modified Ziploc plastic container I use to house my 2.5″ P. regalis juvenile. He will likely get rehoused after his next molt.

With its beautiful coloration and patterns, impressive size, and slender and athletic build, the P. regalis makes a stunning addition to any tarantula collection. As they are very prevalent in the hobby, the slings are quite inexpensive, running anywhere from $20 to $30, and a juvenile female can usually be purchased for under $100. That being said, this is a large, fast tarantula with very potent venom and not generally a species recommended for inexperienced keepers.

For more information on this wonderful species, visit arachnoboards and search key words P. regalis!

Grammastola porteri (The “Rosie”) Care

The “vanilla” of the tarantula hobby.

Anyone who has read my bio or some of my posts knows that the first tarantula I ever acquired was my female Grammastola porteri (Common name, “Chilean Rose” or “Rosie”). Back in 1996, my future wife and I had just moved into our first apartment together, and I was was assembling a menagerie of pets I wasn’t allowed to have when I lived at home. After purchasing several snakes and a ferret, I decided it was time to fulfill a life-long dream and finally get a tarantula. Unfortunately, it was illegal for pet stores to sell tarantulas, so I took to the local classifieds to find a T. Little did I know that I was about to buy what would eventually become my longest-living pet.

My G. porteri (Chilean Rose) about a year ago.

My G. porteri (Chilean Rose) about a year ago.

18 years later, and “The Queen”, as we affectionately refer to her, is still going strong. When I acquired her, she was close to adult size at about 4.5″ or so, and she has molted four times while  in my care. As Grammastolas are notoriously slow growers, and my female was a wild-caught specimen, we estimate that she was anywhere from 5 to 10 years old when I acquired her, meaning she is now in her 20s. Her last molt was back in 2008, and she is now a full 6″ DLS (diagonal leg span). Experts on this species estimate that, with the correct care, females could be expected to live 30+ years.

Two color forms…or two species?

For years, G. porteri and G. rosea have been staples in the tarantula hobby due to their ease of care, availability, and reputation for being particularly docile. Although this is still subject of debate, the tarantula referred to as the “Chilean Rose” is actually listed as two different species by The World Spider Catalog. For years, they have been labeled as different color forms of the same species, with G. porteri usually being referred to as NCF (normal color form) and G. rosea being called RCF (red color form). The G. porteri, the species I keep, is more of gray brown coloration with a pinkish/maroon sheen on its carapace, and the rosea is known for it more red/pink tones.  However, color may not be the best way to tell these species apart, and suspected cross-breeding has likely rendered differentiation an even more muddled affair.

Just add water…and crickets!

Care for this species is very simple, and they prove to be quite hardy in captivity. I keep mine in a 5-gallon acrylic enclosure on bone dry coco fiber substrate. I supply a cork bark hide and a water bowl; this is one of the few Ts that I keep I have actually witnessed drinking. My G. porteri is a wonderful hunter, and has a great food response. I feed her 3-5 large crickets a month, easing off a bit during the winter months. Although this doesn’t sound like much, she has a plump abdomen and is in wonderful shape.

There are no special temperature requirements, as this species will do well at room temperature. Basic rule of thumb; if you’re comfortable, then your G. porteri will be fine. Temps in my tarantula room are high 60s to mid 70s in the winter, and mid 70s to low 80s in the summer. This is a species from an arid environment, so there is no need to mist or moisten the substrate. A water bowl will provide all of the moisture it will need.

Sorry, but I’m just not hungry this year.

“Rosies” are notorious for fasting. Doing a quick search on the arachnoboards forum will yield dozens of threads about G. roseas and G. porteris NOT eating for long periods of time. This is normal behavior and nothing to be concerned about. I’m very fortunate in that my G. porteri has never fasted. I do, however, have a G. rosea sling, who stopped eating for most of the winter, a period of about four months. Some report their G. porteris/roseas have fasted for over a year.

Watch those fingers…

These two species have a reputation for being very docile and handle-able, and they are therefore recommended as “beginner Ts” to those entering the hobby. Although I agree that they are great beginner tarantulas due to their ease of husbandry, this species’ temperament can be VERY unpredictable. Stories of “Psycho Rosies” can be found on any tarantula message board, and more than one keeper has been bit trying to hold his “docile” pet rock.

As with any species, temperment varies from animal to animal, and care should always be exercised when performing cage maintenance or rehousings. Although my G. porteri appears very laid back, she has a great feeding response and will charge at any disturbance in her enclosure.

Pet rock? Maybe. Beautiful T? Yes.

As more colorful and active species have been introduced into the hobby, the “Rosie” has developed a negative reputation for being a blah “pet rock.” The life of a G. porteri is mostly a sedentary one, and mine will often spend days in the same exact spot. Even when I relocated her enclosure to get a good photo, she didn’t move. They also get a bad rap for basically being the quintessential “big brown hairy spider” that everyone usually pictures when one says “tarantula.”

However, most owners of these species enjoy that their T is always visible, making it great for display, and appreciate its more easy-going temperament. Also, although I find that mine will spend long periods just sitting, it’s an event when she does get the urge to moving around and explore. Despite only being gray/brown in basic coloration, she is still a handsome tarantula and more than just a giant brown spider. Leg striping and a gorgeous pink/maroon sheen on her carapace add a touch of beauty to this species.

Notice the coloration on the carapace.

Notice the coloration on the carapace.

Although I’ve gotten into much faster and aggressive old world tarantulas, and I enjoy some of the large and feisty South American species, I will always love the G. porteri/rosea species. The ease of care, availability, and generally docile temperaments make it a wonderful beginner tarantula as long as the new owner is patient with long fasts. Even for experienced keepers, the “Chilean Rose” makes a wonderful addition to the collection.

For an amazingly comprehensive article and care sheet for this species from an expert in tarantula care, Stan Schwartz, CLICK HERE.

C. cyaneopubescens and P. cancerides Molts – Pictures!

With the warmer summer weather, and temperatures now consistently in the mid-80s, my tarantulas’ metabolisms have kicked into high gear. This means more eating, more growing, and more molting. In the past two weeks alone, 14 of my spiders have molted, and some of Ts I picked up as .75″ slings are now creeping closer to their adult colorations.

My juvenile C. cyaneopubescens (or GBB), one of the first two slings I purchased as a .75″ sling in October of 2013 is now 2.5+” and is sporting more of the adult orange on its abdomen and more blue on its legs.

2.5" after a recent molt.

2.5″ after a recent molt.

My juvenile P. cancerides (Haitian Brown) also molted again. What once was a striking little dark blue sling is now a 3″ juvenile will beautiful bronze and pink tones. These little guys have rapidly become one of my favorite species, and I very much enjoy watching the color changes as they grow into adults.

3" P. cancerides after a recent molt.

3″ P. cancerides after a recent molt.

Both of these Ts have undergone amazing color changes as they molt toward adulthood, and I will be eagerly awaiting what metamorphosis the next molts will bring.

 

Autumn’s Eight-Legged Experience Review

NOTE: THIS VENDOR IS NO LONGER IN BUSINESS!

After being burned once on a transaction with a private party selling Ts, I’ve been a bit gun-shy to order from anyone but established and reputable dealers. However, while perusing the For Sale/Trade/Want To Buy section of arachnoboards, I stumbled on an ad for .5″ Hapalopus sp. Columbia Large (Pumpkin Patch) slings for an amazing price of $18 each.

Now, I had been pricing this species out for months, and the cheapest I had found them for was about $35 for 1/3″. I knew the vendor, Autumn, from the boards, but I wasn’t aware that she had started selling. I checked her review thread, and found glowing reviews going back several months.

Interested, I clicked on a link to a very clean website offering several types of slings and many cool sling packages. The prices were outstanding, and the shipping charges were the lowest I had seen. For $10, she was offering Priority shipping with LAG. Even better, if you spent $50, Priority shipping was FREE. Wow. For those who didn’t want to chance a two-day journey, Autumn also offered overnight shipping for a very reasonable $35.

I ordered three Hapalopus sp. Columbia large slings. Not only were the spiders VERY reasonably priced, but I got the free Priority shipping with LAG on my purchase as it was over $50. On top of that, I even got a free B. albopilosum sling. To call this transaction a bargain would be an understatement. 

Autumn’s communication throughout the entire transaction was amazing; she is very pleasant and affable. Corresponding via text (phone is also an option), she kept me updated on my order and even asked which freebie I wanted. The tracking information was texted directly to me, which was very convenient.

Shipping was prompt, and the packing was EXCELLENT. The slings were first nestled safely inside straws, then the straws were wrapped in moist paper towel and enclosed in a larger dram bottle. The bottle was packed and padded in a foam-lined Priority box. These little guys were very well protected.

Packing from Autumn's Eight-Legged Experience.

Packing from Autumn’s Eight-Legged Experience.

Packing from Autumn's Eight-Legged Experience.  The box is foam-lined and the slings are cushioned by bags.

Packing from Autumn’s Eight-Legged Experience. The box is foam-lined and the slings are cushioned by bags.

A peek inside the dram bottle shows the straws containing the Ts. These are cushioned by moistened paper towel.

A peek inside the dram bottle shows the straws containing the Ts. These are cushioned by moistened paper towel.

The straws containing my tiny slings. This was a wonderful packing job.

The straws containing my tiny slings. This was a wonderful packing job.

My new acquisitions arrived lively and in great shape; it’s obviously that they have been well cared for. Three of the slings have already taken a prey item.

I won’t hesitate to order from Autumn again, and I highly recommend her. Her prices, service, and packing are EXCELLENT. I’m glad to have discovered this new dealer. Visit Autumn’s Eight Legged Experience Now!

A 1/2" H. sp. Columbia sling purchased from Autumn's Eight-Legged Experience.

A 1/2″ H. sp. Columbia sling purchased from Autumn’s Eight-Legged Experience.

 

Arachnoboards… THE Place for Tarantula Information

Arachnoboards

Anyone who has done a search for tarantula information or care sheets has likely stumbled upon links to the Arachnoboards forum. When I first started researching the hobby, I found that many of my Google searches inevitably brought me to this wonderful forum, and it wasn’t long before I decided to sign up.

If there is a place online with more useful information about tarantula keeping, I’ve yet to find it. The forum is populated by seasoned hobbyists and novices alike, and the amount of information shared and exchanged on any given day is impressive.  It’s a wonderful community where posters can discuss the hobby and mingle with others who enjoy keeping tarantulas. There are discussion boards, picture threads and galleries, dealer reviews, classifieds, as well as many other useful boards and topics.

A few tips for getting the most out of the boards.

1. Sign up! This may seem obvious, but it is very easy to just lurk on the site without every signing up. Unfortunately, if you don’t sign up, you are not able to see some of the boards, including the classifieds or dealer sections. You definitely don’t want to miss out on the many deals to be found on these boards. Also, if you’re not signed up, you can’t post or look up member profiles (two thing that you might find useful later on).

2. Do your homework! Although there are a number of knowledgeable and helpful members on the boards who will happily respond to your questions, that doesn’t mean the free advice should be abused. Before posting what could be an obvious or oft-repeated question on the boards, take the time to do a quick Google search. Many care sheets and basic info can be found in less time than it would take to make a post. Or, you could always…

3. Use the forum’s SEARCH function! The amount of information on Arachnoboards it staggering. Chances are, if you have a question, it’s been answered somewhere before. Always use the search function first to see if you can quickly answer your own question. It’s easy, it’s quick, and it keeps the boards from being cluttered with questions that have been asked dozens of times before.

Use the search function in the upper right corner before posting.

Use the search function in the upper right corner before posting.

4. Beware of the “hot” topics! There are a few topics that can soon turn the boards into a battleground of dissenting arguments. Should you hold your tarantula, or does it endanger the animal? Should you supply water bowls, or is that a waste of time?  Should you use expensive cages, or make your own cheaper ones? Do you have the experience to safely own an old world T? These are some of the topics that divide hobbyists and send tempers flying. You’ve been warned…

5. Identify those with experience and pay attention! It doesn’t take long to figure out which members have years of experience and valuable information to share. Pay attention to what these guys and gals say, as you will likely glean plenty of useful information from their posts and responses.

6. Use the  scientific names! There are just too many species of tarantulas with way too many overlapping “common” names for hobbyists to keep straight. Just look up “white knee” and see how many species this name may apply to. Scientific names provide a convenient, accurate, and common language for hobbyist to use so that species aren’t confused.

Arachnoboards is a wonderful community for anyone interested in the tarantula keeping hobby, and should be a frequent stop for the serious enthusiast. Hope to see you on the boards!

 

 

Monocentropus balfouri Husbandry

A cream and blue beauty!

When folks try to tell me that there there is no such thing as a “beautiful tarantula”, I have a few go-to species that I will immediately Google. Besides the P. metallica and C. cyaneopubescens, I also pull up photos of the tarantula featured in this blog, the M. balfouri. These gorgeous spiders sport creamy tan bodies, metallic blue/silver carapaces, and blue legs, and are a stunning representation of just how striking blue coloration on a T can be.

My female M. balfouri, now a young adult.

My female M. balfouri, now a young adult.

This gorgeous spider comes from a group of islands off the coast of Africa of which Socotra is the largest, hence its common name of Socotra Island Blue Baboon. Although they’ve become much more established in the hobby, they are still in demand, commanding premium prices. I got my juveniles for $60 each as part of a newsletter promotion. Expect to pay up to $100 for the same size elsewhere. I’ve seen females of this species selling for $300, so this can be a pricey pet.

This 2" juvenile is starting to show some of its blue coloration. I'm hoping to see more blue on the legs after its next molt.

This 2″ juvenile is starting to show some of its blue coloration. I’m hoping to see more blue on the legs after its next molt.

M. balfouri care

I housed my three 1,75″ juveniles in medium (5″ x 6″h x 8″l) critter keepers with about four inches of bone dry cocofiber substrate. I provided all three with small water bowls, which they usually fill up with dirt or web over. This species will burrow, creating a maze of underground tunnels with several entrances. They are also prolific webbers, and all three of mine have laid down a thick, silky carpet over much the substrate. As  this species comes from a semi-desert environment, I do not mist the enclosure or moisten the substrate; the water bowl is sufficient.

Now that my female is about 3.75″ DLS, she will be getting a rehousing very soon. The next transfer will likely be the final one, and she will be getting a 3-4 gallon Sterilite enclosure with about 6″ of substrate (60/40 mix of dry top soil and peat).

A top down view of an M. balfouri's enclosure. Notice the thick webbing.

A top down view of an M. balfouri’s enclosure. Notice the thick webbing.

The growth rate for my M. balfouris has been medium, with all three molting five times in my care over a 19-month period. Between molts, they picked up around .25 – .5″ of size or so. During their first two winters, when temps in my tarantula room were mid 70s during the day and dropped to low 70s at night, they mostly stayed in their tunnels as they fasted for a few months. During these periods, I rarely saw any of them, and I would drop a small cricket in once every two weeks and remove it if it wasn’t eaten by the next morning.

When the temps warm up (low 80s during the day, high 70s at night), and their metabolisms are more active and they eat great. I have noticed that they seem to prefer smaller prey, and I was feeding two small crickets or meal worms twice a week when they were juveniles. Now that they are sub-adults, they get two medium crickets a week. They refuse food when they are in premolt or during the slightly colder and drier winter months. During this time, they retreat to their tunnels and surface when the molt process has been completed or when the weather has warmed up.

Too much reading? Check out my husbandry video below!

This species is generally recognized for having a calmer, less defensive temperament, which could make it a good starter Old World species. Although they are more shy and reclusive than many their baboon cousins, they can still, in theory, deliver quite a bite.  Mine generally bolt into one of their many tunnel entrances at the slightest disturbance, and not one has shown any defensiveness. However, that can always change with age, and temperament differs from specimen to specimen. Always use care when working with old world species.

Although I’ve read of instances where this species can become a “pet hole”, spending the majority of its time in its den, mine are are actually visible quite often. Usually late afternoon, I can look forward to my three juveniles creeping out of their dens to sit on the surface for a while. They only seem to stay submerged when in promolt or during the colder winter months.

This juvenile is showing some of the gorgeous blue on its legs after a recent molt.

This juvenile is showing some of the gorgeous blue on its legs after a recent molt.

Although I’ve yet to try to breed any of my tarantulas, the M. balfouri is high on my list when I do. Unlike most other Ts, M. balfouri mothers will actually nurture their spiderlings, killing prey and dragging it into the den to feed them. A search of balfouri breeding and parenting will bring up some fascinating stories about M. balfouri mothering, and most breeders have more success when they leave the sacs in with the mother. It doesn’t get much cooler than that.

Those looking for a gorgeous old world tarantula with beautiful coloration and relatively simple husbandry requirements should look no further than the M. balfouri. Their calmer temperaments also make them a good, if pricey, introduction species for those new to old worlds.

 

 

Tarantula Enclosures from Lorex Plastics … A Review

Gorgeous enclosures that wont break the bank

With several of my tarantulas reaching adult sizes, I found it was time to do some enclosure shopping. As I stated in an earlier blog, I use a variety of enclosures, including DIY and premium, professionally-made varieties. Premium enclosures can be costly, and when you have 50 or so Ts, you could end up spending more on the homes than you do on the animals. That said, I do have tarantulas that I consider worthy “showcase animals” that I like to show off to visitors. For these specimens, I don’t mind splurging for classier enclosures.

I had discovered Reptile-Enclosure.com last year while looking for large acrylic enclosures for my Ts. When I was first pricing cages on the site, I discovered the majority of the sizes were no longer in stock, and I wrongly assumed the company was no longer in business. In actuality, Reptile Enclosure.com is owned and run by Lorex Plastics Co, a plastics company that makes reptile and tarantula cages during the slow seasons. For those interested in these enclosures, this is something to keep in mind.

As luck would have it, I stumbled on Lorex’s eBay listing for two of their enclosures, and decided to check out the site again. I was ecstatic to discover that almost all of the sizes and types were in stock, and they were definitely still in business.

Lorex offers several types of enclosures, including arboreal and terrestrial varieties, as well as front-loading and hinged topped designs. For tarantulas, I specifically looked at the 3 mm Series, which includes convenient 2 gallon, 5 gallon, 7 gallon, and 12 gallon sizes.

I ordered three of the 5 gallon enclosures, which measure 17″ x 9″ h x 8″w and retail for $47.50 before shipping. Also, Lorex offers a 15% discount if you buy three or more cages of the same size, so I was afforded those savings as well. I phoned to ask a couple questions about my order, and spoke to Ed. Communication was excellent, and Ed was very friendly and helpful via phone and email.

My order was shipped promptly, and as Lorex is located just on the other side of my state, they arrived via UPS in a day. I always worry when I order acrylic cages, as I know how unforgiving the shipping process can be. However, my new enclosures were packed so well, nothing was going to harm them in transit. Each of the three cages was wrapped in five or six layers of bubble wrap, then individually boxed. These three boxes were then packed into another larger box for added protection. Wow.

One BIG box filled with three of Lorex's 5 gallon enclosures

One BIG box filled with three of Lorex’s 5 gallon enclosures

Each enclosure came wrapped in bubble wrap and in its own box.

Each enclosure came wrapped in bubble wrap and in its own box.

I was very pleased to discover that each enclosure was wrapped in 5-6 layers of bubble wrap.

I was very pleased to discover that each enclosure was wrapped in 5-6 layers of bubble wrap.

The cages themselves are well-constructed and just gorgeous. Each top-hinged door has a lip that overhangs the front and locks with a hasp. As these can be used for reptiles as well, they’ve been designed to have a 1/2″ of clearance beneath the bottom to allow for an under the tank heat mat (note: do not use heat mats for Ts). I love the look of the aluminum vents, although I’ll have to keep an eye on them as some terrestrial Ts have been known to chew through wire.

My only nit-picky issue is that the vents are not glued or otherwise permanently affixed to the cage, but this is a very small issue. I do love the position of the vents, as they allow for a deeper level of substrate than some of my other cages afford. The enclosures also feel very solid and sturdy, which is great.

5 gallon Lorex Acrylic Enclosure. Notice the lip and locking hasp.

5 gallon Lorex Acrylic Enclosure. Notice the lip and locking hasp.

I definitely recommend Lorex acrylic enclosures for anyone looking for a premium cage to display one or more of their prized tarantulas. They come in a number of convenient sizes, they are wonderfully constructed, and even with shipping, the prices are lower than other comparable acrylic enclosures sold elsewhere. Customer service was top notch, and Ed at Lorex was a pleasure to deal with. I’m already eyeing a couple of the 12-gallon versions for when my L. parahybana and P. antinous get a bit larger.

To check out these wonderful enclosures, click here!

My enclosure decorated and now the new home of my L. itabunae.

My enclosure decorated and now the new home of my L. itabunae.

 

P. antinous Pre and Post Molt Pics!

Wow…just WOW.

When I purchased my P. antinous a few months ago, it was partly because I had read that they were voracious eaters who made huge size gains between molts. As I have enjoyed watching my female ravage any prey items dropped into her cage, I already knew that she was a lively eater. But what would the next molt bring? Would she really make a huge size jump?

The answer is a big HECK YES.

After a few week long pre-molt period, and another week in her den as her new exoskeleton hardened up, my P. antinous female finally reemerged this morning. To say the change in appearance and size is profound would be an understatement. Gone are the rusty red/brown tones she sported before entering promolt. She now sports the dark gray/blue colors that lend her the common name of Steely Blue.  Her abdomen is also covered with some very striking red hairs which prove a wonderful contrast to the rest of her body.

My 3.5" P. antinous female. (before a recent molt)

My 3.5″ P. antinous female. (before a recent molt)

As for size, when I originally purchased this female, she was a hair over 3.5′. Although I haven’t been able to get an exact measurement yet, she is now definitely 5″ or more. The size change is astounding; the claims about huge size gains are not in the least exaggerated. She is gorgeously leggy and moves like lightning when disturbed.

My female P. antinous after her recent molt. She went from around 3.5" to about 5".

My female P. antinous after her recent molt. She went from around 3.5″ to about 5″.

She has already had her first post-molt meal, a large dubia roach, and I’m sure she’ll continue to be a great eater. Now that I’ve seen the growth for myself, I can’t wait to see what the next molt brings.

 

 

 

Custom Dubia Roach Enclosure and Care

Over the past six months, my tarantula collection had grown a great deal in both the quantity of Ts kept and the size of individual specimens. I now had several adult/sub-adult Ts that required larger prey items, and I was looking for an alternative to the crickets. I decided that it was now time for me to start raising my own food source. So, a couple months ago, I purchased my first dubia roach starter colony of 125+ roaches. After doing some online research on dubia husbandry and breeding in which I discovered dozens of enclosure designs and roach-chow recipes, I was ready to set up my own colony.

What follows is what I have come up with to house and feed my roaches. This is, by no means, the only way to do it, nor can I take credit for coming up with these designs or methods. This is, however, what is currently working for me.

Start with a 7 gallon Sterilite Stacker Tote

I picked up my 7 gallon Sterilite at my local Walmart. You can definitely use a larger size of container, and many do, but I needed something that would fit comfortably on a shelf that I already used. Although these containers are offered in clear plastic, you want something that blocks most of the light out (roaches, as you may know, are NOT fond of the light).

UPDATE 11/2016: My colony grew rather quickly, so I now use a 58-quart Sterilite container.

I found this to be a great size for my roach colony enclosure.

I found this to be a great size for my roach colony enclosure.

Add some ventilation.

I always have some of these convenient plastic vents on hand from Round Vents , so I used them for my enclosure. These 3″ vents only run $1.32 each, and I find cutting two holes to install the vents MUCH easier and faster than drilling dozens of air holes. However, either way would work.

3" white plastic vents from Round Vents.

3″ white plastic vents from Round Vents.

To install them, I just used a 3″ hole saw and my cordless drill to make a hole on either side of the container. I used hot glue around the edges then just popped them in. (Again, you can drill a series of holes, and it will serve the same purpose and cost a bit less).

The vents have been installed on opposite end of the Sterilite enclosure. Vents should be closer to the top.

The vents have been installed on opposite end of the Sterilite enclosure. Vents should be close to the top.

Start saving those egg cartons!

You’ll need something inside the enclosure for the roaches to climb on and hide in. Cardboard egg cartons or egg trays work perfectly. If you have the forethought (and you eat a lot of eggs) save some of the ones you get when you buy eggs from your local grocer. You can also find them at tractor or farming supply stores. I bought mine at a local Agway. Many use the 6 x 6 egg trays, but for my smaller enclosure, the regular 2 x 6 egg cartons fit better. The larger trays can be purchased in bulk online.

Put these inside your enclosure for the roaches to climb on and hide in.

Put these inside your enclosure for the roaches to climb on and hide in.

 Roaches need food bowls, too.

It makes it MUCH easier to clean and feed your roaches if you supply food bowls. For mine, I used two Ziploc small square containers (5″x 5″), which I trimmed down with a pair of scissors to fit better and to add an entrance for the smaller roaches. One of these I fill with fresh organic fruit (nectarines, oranges, peaches, strawberries, grapes, apples, etc.). The other I fill with my homemade “roach chow”.

Two of these are supplied: one for fresh fruit and the other for the dry roach chow.

Two of these are supplied: one for fresh fruit and the other for the dry roach chow.

 Carefully fit everything into the enclosure.

On one end, stand up the egg cartons. I have two rows of five in mine, and the roaches seem to do fine. At the other end, place the two food bowls with the openings facing the egg cartons. When you get your roaches, carefully dump them on the egg cartons; they will quickly scramble down between them to hide.

The roaches will climb and hide in the egg cartons. The two food bowls contain fruit and roach chow.

The roaches will climb and hide in the egg cartons. The two food bowls contain fruit and roach chow.

A word about roach food.

It’s a fact: roaches will eat just about anything. As a result, there is no set, scientific diet for your feeder roaches. Do a quick search online, and you’ll find dozens, if not hundreds, of possible food choices. Moistened dog food, chicken mash, crushed cereal, organic tabbouleh…all are on the menu. While researching, I stumbled upon this cheap, simple recipe for “roach chow”, and so far it’s worked great. There are only two ingredients.

Flaked fish food.

Whole Oats

Goldfish flakes and whole oats combined and blended make great roach food.

Goldfish flakes and whole oats combined and blended make great roach food.

Just drop the oats and flakes in a blender (I do about 60/40 oats to flakes), blend to a powdery mash. Simple. I purchase large canisters of both, then blend up extra so that I always have it on hand. As both the flakes and oats can be purchased at Walmart for a few dollars, you can make enough food for months without hurting your wallet. I supplement the roach chow with fresh fruit to provide a more balanced diet. For water, I spray down one side of the enclosure just above the fruit dish every night, which has been fine and keeps things from getting too moist.

UPDATE 11/2016:  I have altered my roach chow recipe a bit. I now use oats, corn meal, and fish flakes in a 40/40/20 ratio or so. I drop these in a blender, grind them up good, then store them in an airtight container.

I also don’t offer fruit as often anymore, as it spoils very quickly (especially during the summer) and attracts fruit flies. I’ve switched to mostly carrots, potatoes, and some apples.

My container of "roach chow" (blended oats and fish flakes).

My container of “roach chow” (blended oats and fish flakes).

The hotter, the better.

If you want happy roaches and an ever-growing supply of feeders, you’d better be prepared to jack up those temperatures. Dubia thrive in warm environments. and you’ll need to keep them in the mid 80s to mid 90s if you’d like them to mate and reproduce. As these temps are too high for many T species, you will likely have to keep your feeders in a separate room. During the dog days of summer, I keep mine in my attic, where temps are almost always around 88-90 degrees.

UPDATE 11/2016: They do not need temps in the high 80s to low 90s to reproduce. Mine are kept much of the year in the 70s, and they still have young. That said, you get more offspring the warmer you keep them. If you can’t get your room temperatures up high enough to stimulate faster reproduction, you can use a heat mat on one side of the enclosure to raise temps inside. If you’re using a Sterilite bin, try mounting the heat mat on a wall, then position the cage next to it.

Keep in mind that high temperatures will cause fresh fruit to rot very quickly, so be sure to change the fruit bowl often to avoid fruit flies and decomposition.

In the winter months, they should really be kept 65-70 minimum. However, although this will be high enough to keep them alive, they will not be reproducing.

Cleaning is breeze.

My wife and I clean our colony every week, and we’ve found that it’s quite simple. Just lift out the egg cartons and place them in an empty cardboard box while you work. Remove the food dishes and any stragglers, then just dump the feces (which is tiny and dry) into the garbage. Use a damp cloth to clean up the bottom, dry it, then put everything back in. They are actually quite clean overall, and produce no real odor.

Simple and cheap!

So, there you have it. Again, this is not the only way to keep roaches, but this is how I’m currently keeping mine. It is also quite inexpensive to put together, costing around $20 for everything.  However, feel free to experiment or do whatever works for you. Dubia, generally speaking, are quite hardy and will adapt to other food sources or set ups.

 

 

 

 

Brachypelma Boehmei Molt

It’s been Tarantula Molt Central here, with 14 of my Ts molting in the past week (and several more in premolt). The 80º+ temps in my tarantula room have even my slowest growers sporting new skins, and it’s been amazing getting to watch several go though the long, exhausting process of molting.

Since getting my Brachypelma boehmei  (Mexican Fire Leg) in January of this year, I’ve been eagerly awaiting the first molt. The collector I bought it from admitted that the poor girl had taken a fall a few months before I purchased her, and although there was no visible damage, I worried that there might be something wrong internally. Still, for months, she ate like a champ, relentless chasing prey across her enclosure and quickly devouring her meals. When her pre-molt fasting began, I kept an eager eye out for the result.

My B. boehmei on her back as she prepares for a molt. Many inexperienced keepers have thought their pets dead when they see them like this.

My B. boehmei on her back as she prepares for a molt. Many inexperienced keepers have thought their pets dead when they see them like this.

A week ago, I watched as she laid down a molting mat and flipped over to start the long process. Six hours later, she sported a new, much more vibrant skin suit…

…and a nasty-looking bald spot on her abdomen. Apparently my fears about her fall having internal consequences weren’t unfounded (although it could be a coincidence). The spot is a pale orange in color and about 6mm across. It definitely looks as if there was some damage in this area, as the edges are uneven and a bit crusty, leading to the imperfect molt.

My B. boehmei in the act of molting (the exuvia is on the left, the T on the right)

My B. boehmei in the act of molting (the exuvia is on the left, the T on the right)

My B. boehmei sporting a new suit.

My B. boehmei sporting a new suit.

I held my breath as I waited to see if she would pull through, or if this defect would prove life-threatening. So far, so good. Although the spot looks nasty, she is moving around fine and seems to be hardening up nicely. I will be careful when feeding her to be sure that she doesn’t get too distended, which could put too much pressure on this potentially weak spot in her abdomen.

The bald spot on the abdomen, I'm guessing, is from an internal injury caused by a fall.

The bald spot on the abdomen, I’m guessing, is from an internal injury caused by a fall.

Hopefully, my girl’s next molt, which I suspect wont come for several months, will go smoothly and she’ll lose this nasty patch. I plan on trying to feed her soon, and I will post how it goes.

Fingers crossed…