Tarantula Enclosures from Lorex Plastics … A Review

July 14, 2014July 14, 2014 / cancerides / Leave a comment

Gorgeous enclosures that wont break the bank

With several of my tarantulas reaching adult sizes, I found it was time to do some enclosure shopping. As I stated in an earlier blog, I use a variety of enclosures, including DIY and premium, professionally-made varieties. Premium enclosures can be costly, and when you have 50 or so Ts, you could end up spending more on the homes than you do on the animals. That said, I do have tarantulas that I consider worthy “showcase animals” that I like to show off to visitors. For these specimens, I don’t mind splurging for classier enclosures.

I had discovered Reptile-Enclosure.com last year while looking for large acrylic enclosures for my Ts. When I was first pricing cages on the site, I discovered the majority of the sizes were no longer in stock, and I wrongly assumed the company was no longer in business. In actuality, Reptile Enclosure.com is owned and run by Lorex Plastics Co, a plastics company that makes reptile and tarantula cages during the slow seasons. For those interested in these enclosures, this is something to keep in mind.

As luck would have it, I stumbled on Lorex’s eBay listing for two of their enclosures, and decided to check out the site again. I was ecstatic to discover that almost all of the sizes and types were in stock, and they were definitely still in business.

Lorex offers several types of enclosures, including arboreal and terrestrial varieties, as well as front-loading and hinged topped designs. For tarantulas, I specifically looked at the 3 mm Series, which includes convenient 2 gallon, 5 gallon, 7 gallon, and 12 gallon sizes.

I ordered three of the 5 gallon enclosures, which measure 17″ x 9″ h x 8″w and retail for $47.50 before shipping. Also, Lorex offers a 15% discount if you buy three or more cages of the same size, so I was afforded those savings as well. I phoned to ask a couple questions about my order, and spoke to Ed. Communication was excellent, and Ed was very friendly and helpful via phone and email.

My order was shipped promptly, and as Lorex is located just on the other side of my state, they arrived via UPS in a day. I always worry when I order acrylic cages, as I know how unforgiving the shipping process can be. However, my new enclosures were packed so well, nothing was going to harm them in transit. Each of the three cages was wrapped in five or six layers of bubble wrap, then individually boxed. These three boxes were then packed into another larger box for added protection. Wow.

One BIG box filled with three of Lorex’s 5 gallon enclosures

Each enclosure came wrapped in bubble wrap and in its own box.

I was very pleased to discover that each enclosure was wrapped in 5-6 layers of bubble wrap.

The cages themselves are well-constructed and just gorgeous. Each top-hinged door has a lip that overhangs the front and locks with a hasp. As these can be used for reptiles as well, they’ve been designed to have a 1/2″ of clearance beneath the bottom to allow for an under the tank heat mat (note: do not use heat mats for Ts). I love the look of the aluminum vents, although I’ll have to keep an eye on them as some terrestrial Ts have been known to chew through wire.

My only nit-picky issue is that the vents are not glued or otherwise permanently affixed to the cage, but this is a very small issue. I do love the position of the vents, as they allow for a deeper level of substrate than some of my other cages afford. The enclosures also feel very solid and sturdy, which is great.

5 gallon Lorex Acrylic Enclosure. Notice the lip and locking hasp.

I definitely recommend Lorex acrylic enclosures for anyone looking for a premium cage to display one or more of their prized tarantulas. They come in a number of convenient sizes, they are wonderfully constructed, and even with shipping, the prices are lower than other comparable acrylic enclosures sold elsewhere. Customer service was top notch, and Ed at Lorex was a pleasure to deal with. I’m already eyeing a couple of the 12-gallon versions for when my L. parahybana and P. antinous get a bit larger.

To check out these wonderful enclosures, click here!

My enclosure decorated and now the new home of my L. itabunae.

Brachypelma Boehmei Molt

July 11, 2014July 11, 2014 / cancerides / 2 Comments

It’s been Tarantula Molt Central here, with 14 of my Ts molting in the past week (and several more in premolt). The 80º+ temps in my tarantula room have even my slowest growers sporting new skins, and it’s been amazing getting to watch several go though the long, exhausting process of molting.

Since getting my Brachypelma boehmei (Mexican Fire Leg) in January of this year, I’ve been eagerly awaiting the first molt. The collector I bought it from admitted that the poor girl had taken a fall a few months before I purchased her, and although there was no visible damage, I worried that there might be something wrong internally. Still, for months, she ate like a champ, relentless chasing prey across her enclosure and quickly devouring her meals. When her pre-molt fasting began, I kept an eager eye out for the result.

My B. boehmei on her back as she prepares for a molt. Many inexperienced keepers have thought their pets dead when they see them like this.

A week ago, I watched as she laid down a molting mat and flipped over to start the long process. Six hours later, she sported a new, much more vibrant skin suit…

…and a nasty-looking bald spot on her abdomen. Apparently my fears about her fall having internal consequences weren’t unfounded (although it could be a coincidence). The spot is a pale orange in color and about 6mm across. It definitely looks as if there was some damage in this area, as the edges are uneven and a bit crusty, leading to the imperfect molt.

My B. boehmei in the act of molting (the exuvia is on the left, the T on the right)

My B. boehmei sporting a new suit.

I held my breath as I waited to see if she would pull through, or if this defect would prove life-threatening. So far, so good. Although the spot looks nasty, she is moving around fine and seems to be hardening up nicely. I will be careful when feeding her to be sure that she doesn’t get too distended, which could put too much pressure on this potentially weak spot in her abdomen.

The bald spot on the abdomen, I’m guessing, is from an internal injury caused by a fall.

Hopefully, my girl’s next molt, which I suspect wont come for several months, will go smoothly and she’ll lose this nasty patch. I plan on trying to feed her soon, and I will post how it goes.

Fingers crossed…

Do-It-Yourself Sterilite Tarantula Enclosures

June 14, 2014June 16, 2014 / cancerides / 3 Comments

Part of the fun of keeping tarantulas, in my opinion, is the endless search for the perfect “found enclosure.” Sure, there are many gorgeous and professionally-designed cages to choose from, and they make lovely displays for any showcase Ts that you are particularly fond of. However, those with large collections can find housing all of their beloved spiders in these top-of-the-line terrariums much too expensive. That’s why many enthusiasts haunt their local WalMarts, Targets, craft stores, and Family Dollar’s looking for various canisters and containers that can be used “off label” as make-shift tarantula cages.

Sterilite has produced dozens of types of plastic storage containers over the years, and their products have long been used by budget-conscious T enthusiasts hoping to keep costs down as their collections expand. They offer containers in a ridiculous number of sizes, making them ideal for any larger T. And with prices often as low as $1.99 for smaller sizes, they won’t hurt the wallet as much.

I recently discovered their series of lockable and stackable storage containers, and was delighted to learn that they come in a number of convenient sizes. Instead of just drilling holes this time, which definitely works but is tedious and, in my opinion, not as attractive, I decided to use vents. The following is a little step-by-step tutorial for those interested.

NOTE: I know that some folks will argue that drilling holes is a bit cheaper (the vents I’m using her will run you an extra $1.90 or so per cage) or more attractive. Still, I like the look of these, and I find the vents less tedious to install. I also have plenty of enclosures with drilled or melted air holes, so I have NO problem with these.

MATERIALS

Aquarium safe silicone and sealant (or hot glue) ($5.99)
2″ hole saw ($8.88)
Drill
Sterilite stackable containers (6 for $26.22)
Utility knife
Clamp (or a willing relative with strong hands)
Paper towels
2″ round vents ($0.86 each)

1. Buy the Sterilite Containers.

Here are several sizes of storage boxed (as well as a plastic canister that I will modify later). These are wonderful, as they stack quite nicely, saving space.

Here are several sizes of storage boxes (as well as a plastic canister that I will modify later). These are wonderful, as they stack quite nicely, saving space. I purchased these at WalMart, but they can also be found in Target (although their selection hasn’t been as good).

2. Get Some Aquarium-safe silicone.

Next, you will need aquarium silicone, which dries non-toxic. For those with hot glue guns, those will work as well. I allow three days for a full cure.

3. Get 2″ round plastic vents.

I purchase these at roundvents.com. I like the plastic ones, as I worry that a large T could chew through the wire ones.

Vents of this type can be found through several online vendors. I purchased these at roundvents.com. I like the plastic ones, as I worry that a large T could chew through the wire ones.

4. Grab a 2″ Black & Decker (cheap!) hole saw.

To drill the holes, you will need a 2″ hole saw. If you don’t have one, Black & Decker makes a cheap set that includes the 2″ saw for under $10. I found this one at my local WalMart.

5. Clamp the container down before drilling.

Again, you can probably have someone hold while you drill, but I have the clamps handy, so I use them. Notice the piece of wood underneath, which gives you something to drill in. You can also use the circle created by earlier drillings to line up the hole.

Again, you can probably have someone hold the container while you drill, but I have the clamps handy, so I use them. Notice the piece of wood underneath, which gives you something to drill in. You can also use the circle created by earlier drillings to line up the hole.

6. Carefully drill your holes.

Mark the entry point for the guide bit with a Sharpie to keep the hole centered. When drilling, don’t push too hard and allow the drill to do its work. Be careful that the bit doesn’t heat up too much, as if it does, it can melt the plastic. Use a piece of wood underneath to drill into and for support.

7. After drilling the holes, clean edges with a utility knife.

Unfortunately, the drilling process can leave behind some gnarly and an sharp piece of plastic around the edges. Use a utility knife to carefully trim away these scraps.

Unfortunately, the drilling process can leave behind some gnarly and an sharp pieces of plastic around the edges. Use a utility knife to carefully trim away these scraps and make for a clean fit.

8. Put a thin bead of silicone (or hot glue) around the rim of the vent.

Run a nice, thin bead of aquarium safe silicone around the lip of the the vent. Although the vents sport tabs that help “lock” them in place, the silicone seals it up and makes it permanent. Hot glue can also be used, meaning the enclosure could be used sooner as you won’t have to wait for the silicone to cure.

8. Line up the vent and carefully pop it in.

Now, line up the vent and carefully pop it in. I like to do one side facing up and one side facing down. Use a moist paper towel to clean up any excess silicone. I put a vent in two opposite sides of the the container to allow for cross ventilation.

9. Newly vented cages stacked in a cluttered garage.

Several of the newly-vented enclosures. The large one on the bottom will be fitted with 4″ vents.

10. Modified cages in use.

A couple of my earlier enclosures, already occupied. The top enclosure does NOT have vents. For that one, I used a nail heated on a burner to melt the holes into it.

A small note about ventilation: I find that the 2″ vents work very well with this size enclosure. However, after noticing some condensation collecting on the lid of one of my cages after moistening the substrate, I added a row of holes in the lid above the sphagnum moss to allow for a bit more airflow. The moss stays moist, but I no longer get the condensation. Still, I’ve only done this to one enclosure that housed a T that required more moisture.

H. incei gold Feeding Video

June 1, 2014June 1, 2014 / cancerides / Leave a comment

I recently acquired a trio of juvenile/sub-adult H. incei golds, and I immediately discovered what a truly beautiful and interesting species they are. These lively little dwarfs sport gorgeous gold and orange tones that make them wonderful display spiders. They also like to decorate their enclosures with copious amounts of thick webbing, making them one of the more prolific webbers of the species I keep.

One of my H. incei golds after being housed. Not the best picture, as the flash has washed out it’s colors.

All three have been excellent eaters, snatching medium crickets from the mouths of their burrows with lightning speed. Although they were furnished with identical enclosures with cork barks and starter burrow holes dug into the substrate, only two of my H. incei golds adopted these as homes. Both of these two dug deep burrows before lining the opening of their dens in a liberal coating of silk.

The third built what I can best describe as a silken teepee over its cork bark hide. This specimen did not dig, but instead sits on the surface, sometimes beneath its hide, waiting for prey. It makes for a wonderful showcase animal, as it is more often than not visible. It is this T that is featured in the feeding video.

A modified Ziploc container. This H. incei dug a deep burrow; the circle marks the lower chamber.

I keep my H. incei golds in the same temperatures as my other Ts; high 70s during the day with low 70s at night. I also keep the substrate for these guys on the moist side (not wet), by sprinkling water on the surface twice a week. They are currently eating one medium cricket every three or four days.

While feeding my surface-dwelling incei, I decided to get a bit of video with my cell phone. Below is a brief clip of my little guy snatching up a cricket. My apologies for the raucous soundtrack; it is covering up my daughter telling me a story in the background. 🙂

For lovers of dwarf tarantula species, or even just those who want a gorgeous, heavy-webbing T, the H. incei gold makes a wonderful pet.

B. hamorii (Mexican redknee) – A Tarantula Icon

May 25, 2014February 23, 2020 / cancerides / 10 Comments

NOTE: This article was published before the genus revision that revealed that the species being sold as B. smithi in the hobby was actually B. hamorii. This article refers to B. hamorii, but husbandry for both species would be identical.

When I was about six, my father used to take me to a local pet store on occasion so that I could check out the animals for sale. Although I was certainly interested in the puppies, gerbils, guinea pigs, and snakes, the highlight of the trip was always a large Brachypelma smithi, or Mexican redknee tarantula, kept in an aquarium at the back of the store. As a boy who was terrified of spiders, I couldn’t help but to be utterly fascinated by this amazing animal. Although it should have been the stuff of nightmares for me, I couldn’t get enough of it.

Fast-forward a few decades… With my T collection growing, I decided that I had to have a B. smithi. After all, this was arguably the animal that kicked off my fascination with Ts all those years ago, and it was still widely considered to be one of the most popular tarantulas in the hoby. As this species is known for its very slow growth rate, I decided not to pick up a sling and instead searched for a juvenile to young adult female. The B. smithi is thought to be one of the tarantulas with the longest longevity, with some folks suspecting female could live 40 years or more. I’ll admit, it’s a little mind-blowing to think that a pet could outlive me!

My Brachypelma smithi female shortly after I acquired her in December of 2013.

I finally located my girl when my favorite tarantula dealer, Jamie’s Tarantulas, had her cyber-Monday sale last year. My 3″ B. smithi female arrived in early December, and she was gorgeous. For her temporary housing, I used a Sterilite 12 quart plastic storage box, filling it with about 2″ of dry coco fiber. Although I normally use cork bark for a hide, this time I bought a much more fancy resin cast log. A small ceramic water dish was supplied for fresh water. This is a tarantula that thrives in a dry environment, so I do not mist or moisten the substrate.

Check out my female B. smithi below!

B. smithis are generally known for being calm and docile (although there are always exceptions to these “rules”), so I was surprised to discover that my new acquisition was actually very skittish and very fast. My first time opening her enclosure, she nearly bolted out; this is why you can never let your guard down with any T. For the first two months I owned her, she was quite reclusive, rarely venturing out from beneath her log. When she did emerge, the slightest disturbance would send her scurrying for cover.

The first cricket offered was still alive and kicking the next morning, and I actually saw her bolt from it at one point. It was obvious she was not yet completely comfortable in her new surroundings. I waited a couple of days, then offered her a dubia roach with its head crushed (Yup… gross, but it keeps them from burrowing and playing dead). I placed on its back in front of the opening to her den in hopes that she would sense it when she ventured out. It was gone the next morning. Although I continued this process for a few months, she now readily takes live and kicking large crickets.

B. Smithis are New World tarantulas and, as such, use urticating hairs for defense. When stressed, they can kick these irritating bristles from their abdomens, causing itching, burning, and discomfort to any potential predator (or well-meaning keeper) mucking with them. I’m fortunate in that my girl doesn’t seem to be prone to kick yet. She also calmed down a great deal from when I first acquired her. Now when her cage is disturbed, she will usually just scurry to her den and perch herself on top of it. She spends the majority of the time out in the open now, which is great, as she really is a beautiful T.

Like my other Ts, my B. smithi is kept at high 70s during the day and low 70s during the night. She generally eats two 1″ dubia or three large crickets a week. By late February, her abdomen was quite plump, and I cut back on the feeding in hopes that premolt would be coming soon. Finally, in mid-April, she molted.

My 3-4″ B. smithi female after a molt. The white patches on her abdomen hint that she might have experienced a little trouble.

The discarded molt (exuvia) from my female B. smithi.

As she molted inside of her den, I unfortunately did not get to witness the process. I did, however, notice that when she emerged, she had two shiny white spots on her abdomen that probably signified that she experienced a bit of trouble with the molt. I waited a couple weeks before offering her a prey item, and was relieved when she snatched up the first cricket I dropped in. Although she seems to be fine, I will definitely be paying extra attention when it comes time for her next premolt.

My 3.5′-4″ B. smithi perched atop its log hide after a recent meal.

It might have taken dozens of years, but I finally have my B. smithi. With their ease of husbandry, generally even dispositions, and undeniable beauty, there is a reason this species has been the face of tarantula keeping for decades.

DKS (Dyskinetic Syndrome) in Tarantulas

May 24, 2014November 15, 2014 / cancerides / 12 Comments

In February of this year, I purchased an A. insubtilis which I later had sexed as a male. After being housed in his new enclosure, this gorgeous guy settled right in, eating immediately. He proved to be a voracious eater, quickly stalking medium-sized crickets and violently subduing them before feeding. After a couple months, he stopped eating, signaling the beginning of his premolt.

My 2″ male A. insubtilis shortly after being acquired in February.

Three weeks passed, and I came home to discover that he had molted while I was at work. I noticed that his exuvia was still slightly attached to his abdomen, so I moistened the area and used a cotton swab to gently remove it. After a week, he took down and ate his first pre-molt meal. Despite the slight molting difficulty, the little guy would be fine.

Or so I thought.

My A. insubtilis just moments after I used a Q-tip to remove a stuck patch of Exuvia from its abdomen.

While feeding some of my other Ts last week, I noticed that my male A. insubtilis was walking a little strangely. As he lifted each leg, he seemed to shake it as if something was stuck to his toes. I watched him for a bit before chalking it up to normal T behavior.

The next day, it was much worse, and I realized that my poor guy was exhibiting signs of DKS, or Dyskinetic Syndrome. DKS is a series of symptoms characterized by jerky motions, loss of coordination, and an inability to eat. It most often ends in the death of the tarantula. Although no one is completely sure what causes DKS, some theories are pesticides (including flea and tick treatments for dogs and cats), micro organisms infecting the T, mold, or other toxins.

I’m not sure if the molt had anything to do with his development of DKS, or whether it was other factors that caused it. I only mention it as it was something abnormal that occurred just before he started exhibiting signs.

Below is a video of my poor A. insubtilis exhibiting signs of DKS. Notice the movements each time I touch the side of the enclosure. Normally, I wouldn’t mess with a T in obvious stress, but in this case, I wanted to get a short video for records and to show others. It’s not fun to watch, and it’s a bit graphic (my wife can’t stand to see it).

My little guy is definitely losing the fight, and although I put him into a tarantula ICU (deli cup with moist paper towels and elevated humidity), he’s starting to slow down and curl up. I fear the “death curl” is not far behind. As I do not like watching anything suffer, I’m considering euthanizing him before it gets worse.

Click HERE for an an update on this T.

The Poecilotheria metallica – Yes, Tarantulas Can Be Beautiful

May 24, 2014April 22, 2016 / cancerides / 15 Comments

When I first started researching the different species of tarantulas currently available in the hobby, I stumbled across a photo of a Poecilotheria metallica (common name “Gooty sapphire ornamental”). This stunning tarantula sported an amazing metallic blue coloration with a gorgeous fractal pattern on its abdomen and vibrant yellow marking on its legs. The tarantula in the photo was so mind-blowingly beautiful, that I immediately assumed that it was just a clever photoshop job. After all, there was no way a tarantula could be this blue; the picture had to be a fraud.

My 1.75″ P. metallica sling a week after its last molt. It is finally displaying some of those gorgeous blues it will sport as an adult.

It was close to a week later when I encountered another amazing photo of this species, and this time, I decided to do some investigating. Not only did I learn that this was, indeed, a real animal, but also that it was one of the most coveted species in the hobby. Despite being quite readily available, this species still commanded prices as high as $100 for a small sling. Also, although captive breeding efforts provided for healthy numbers in the hobby, this incredible animal is critically endangered in the wild. Limited to a 100 square kilometer region in India, its habitat is being threatened by deforestation.

Although these tarantulas are undeniably pretty, they are still members of the Poecilotheria genus. As such, they possess blinding speed and, though usually reluctant to bite, very potent venom. At the time, I decided that that I needed some more experience with faster species before trying my hand at keeping a P. metallica, so I moved on to other species.

Several months later, my wife took me to a semi-local exotic pet store called Cold Blooded Pets & Supplies for my birthday so that I could peruse their stock of Ts and choose a few for my gift. It just so happened that they had several P. metallica slings among their rather diverse stock. Needless to say, we left with one that afternoon.

Gorgeous … and So Fast!

Although I’ve found most poecilotheria slings to be high-strung and skittish, my P. metallica is particularly prone to make dashes whenever disturbed. Anyone who thinks that they could possibly react in time to a fast fleeing T should watch this little bugger zip around its enclosure four or five time in the blink of an eye. I’m extra cautious when opening its enclosure for feeding or maintenance, as to lose focus could result in an escape.

Like my other pokies (nickname for Poecilotheria), my P. metallica has been growing quickly, having molted two times since late February and picking up .5″ in growth or more. For an enclosure, I use a tall Ziploc Twist ‘n Lock container modified with numerous ventilation holes allowing for good cross-ventilation. Because this is a an arboreal species, the height offered by the enclosure is more important than floor space. Although it is provided with cork bark hide with a thick faux vine for climbing, it tends to just stay at the top of the enclosure. As P. metallica’s are known to be particularly photosensitive, I keep this T in a darker corner of a shelf where it is shielded from light a bit.

The current enclosure for my 1.75-2″ P. metallica sling.

Although kept at the same high 70s day/low 70s night temperatures, I do keep the humidity a bit higher for this T. I moisten, not soak, the substrate a bit once a month. To do this, I don’t spray as it would drive the little guy nuts. Instead, I dribble some water on the substrate. Besides that, a water dish keeps the humidity inside the enclosure slightly higher.

My P. metallica is a great eater, consuming two medium sized crickets a week. The only time it refuses food is when it’s in premolt. As it does not like bright light, I usually drop a cricket in before bed, and it will grab and consume it overnight.

Ventral shot of my P. metallica sling. Despite the poor quality of the shot, you can still make out the yellow banding.

Update: 2/27/2016

As it’s been over a year since this post, and my P. metallica has been doing quite well. Time for an update!

The P. metallica, suspected female, has molted three times since the original post and is now about 4″ in total length. Currently, she is kept at temperatures between 80° during the day and about 74° at night. She eats two large crickets a week and has proven to be a lively and proficient hunter.

It’s worth noting that the P. metallica went through a lengthy period of almost six months in which she didn’t molt at all (previous to this, she would molt every two months or so). This period began in November and lasted until May and coincided with the winter months. It was a particularly cold and brutal winter in which the furnace was running constantly. Although the temps in the tarantula room never dipped below 70°, the humidity was in the teens for several months. The P. metallica had a water dish, and I would periodically moisten the substrate, but I’m convinced that these lower humidity levels and slightly-lower temperatures triggered some type of response in the specimen that led to the lengthy time between molts.

P.-metallica

It should be noted, however, that the P. metallica DID continue to eat during this period. However, due to the fact that its abdomen was quite large and distended, I reduced it’s feeding schedule to one cricket every week or so. Therefore, it appears that although it didn’t show any signs of distress as the humidity levels became less than ideal, it certainly slowed its growth rate a bit.

When it did finally molt, it was time for a rehousing. For its next home, I used a repurposed Sterilite “Showoff” container (15 1/4″ L x 9 3/4 W x 11 1/2″ H), which I ventilated with several holes in the sides for cross-ventilation. After packing in about 3″ of coco fiber, peat moss, and vermiculite substrate, I added a water dish, a cork bark flat, and some plastic plants. I also added some long fiber sphagnum moss to hold moisture. When winter approaches, this new enclosure will make it much easier to maintain a micro climate with higher humidity.

Temperament wise, I think that I got lucky with this one. Once very skittish and photosensitive, she now sits mostly out in the open and tends to crouch down rather than bolt when disturbed. That’s not to say that she doesn’t have frantic speed bursts left in her; she can still run when startled.

Poecilotheria metallica

A Stunning Species for the More Experienced Keeper

When someone gives me that incredulous look after I say a tarantula can be beautiful, I usually show them photos of P. metallicas. Even to folks who don’t “get” tarantulas, they are undeniably pretty. Many keepers count them as the most beautiful species available. Still, they are Poecilotheria, and as such, are not a beginner species. This T has slightly more involved husbandry requirements, and its blinding speed and potent venom make it a potentially dangerous pet for an unwary keeper. For those experienced with fast-moving arboreal Ts, the P. metallica is a must for the collection.

For more information on this gorgeous species, please visit Arachnoboards and search for P. metallica care.

L. parahybana Feeding Video and Husbandry Notes

May 19, 2014August 22, 2014 / cancerides / 2 Comments

After 17+ years of keeping a G. porteri, and with no idea that the tarantula hobby had exploded over the past two decades, I decided that I wanted to see what kinds of species were currently available. To say the number of animals available in the trade was overwhelming would be an understatement, and I soon found myself compiling lengthy lists of potential candidates. After several months of research, I decided on two slings; a Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens (GBB) and a Lasiodora parahybana (LP).

I purchased my LP sling in October of 2013 at a size of about 3/4″ or so. This species has a reputation for being a very fast grower with some keepers reporting their LPs reaching 4″ in a year. Mine has molted five times in the time I’ve kept it, and in that time, it has grown to about 1.75″. I wouldn’t say this is the fastest-growing T I keep, but it molts like clockwork every two months, and puts on a little size each time.

Besides their awesome adult size (8″ is the norm with 10″ possible), it was their rather simple husbandry that attracted me to this species. I keep mine fairly dry and only moisten the substrate in the corner once a week, letting it dry out in between. I’ve provided my 3″ female with a water dish, which I overflow to provide a moist spot. Usually, it quickly ends up filled with dirt. The substrate is a 50/50 mix of coco fiber and sphagnum peat moss, and for the slings, I give them several inches of depth as they like to dig.

For the first five months I kept my LP, I rarely saw it. The little guy had dug an extensive burrow beneath the surface, and he would only pop out to snatch a prey item. There was a two-month period where I never saw it at all. When entering premolt, it would often close off the entrance of its burrow for weeks at a time. Eventually, the hole would reopen, and I would catch a glimpse of my slightly-larger LP.

I keep my LPs at the same temps as my other Ts; high 70s during the day and low 70’s at night. They are great eaters, only refusing a meal if in premolt. Like my P. cancerides, they usually attack their prey with gusto, often rushing at it from across the enclosure.

As slings, LPs are quite skittish, and will quickly bolt or dash down into their hides with the slightest disturbance. My female is a bit more brave, often sitting right out in the open instead of using her hide.

I know keep three LPs; two slings and the gorgeous female my wife gave me for my birthday. I look forward to the day that these beasties mature into an 8″+ behemoths.

Below is a recent feeding video featuring my 1.75″ juvenile.

L. parahybana – Pre and Post Molt Pics

May 18, 2014May 18, 2014 / cancerides / 4 Comments

Mama’s Got a New Fuzzy Suit!

First off, if you haven’t read my earlier post about my L. parahybana female entering premolt, then you may want to check this out.

I’ve been watching this young lady like a hawk since she went dark, and I was hoping that I could get a good photo of her freshly molted. Well, as luck would have it, I actually caught her laying down a molting mat before flipping over on her back. A few hours later, she was standing next to her discarded molt sporting a new skin suit with darker colors.

Besides her new colors (you can now see the salmon hairs that give this little beauty her common name) my little lady picked up about .5/.75″ of length. I will now spend the next few weeks fattening her back up.

My 3″ LP female before a molt.

Was lucky enough to catch my LP as it flipped on its back for a molt.

I was lucky enough to catch my female LP as it flipped on its back for a molt.

My female LP an hour or so after she completed her molt. Notice the bluish color of her new and not-quite-hardened exoskeleton.

My female LP stretching out in her new exoskeleton.

My female LP having her first meal after a recent molt. Notice that she now sports the salmon-colored hairs that give the LPs the common name “Salmon Birdeaters”

This is easily one of my favorite species of tarantula, and every molt is just a thrill. I’ll be looking very forward to watching her grow into the 8″ to 9″ beast she’ll eventually become.

Michael Jacobi’s Spider Shoppe – A Review

May 10, 2014 / cancerides / Leave a comment

I had first heard of Micheal Jacobi when I purchased the Kindle edition of his TARANTULAS book from the Animal Planet Pet Care Library. I very much enjoyed this book, and found it to be a very accessible read and an excellent introduction to tarantula keeping. About that same time, I stumbled across an advertisement for his online store, Micheal Jacobi’s Spider Shoppe. I knew that it would only be a matter of time before I placed my first order with him, as he had a very diverse selection in stock, and his prices were quite fair.

Well, last week I was given a little extra incentive to do so when Michael announced a three-day blowout sale in preparation for a trip he was taking oversees. To receive the price list, folks needed only to be signed up for his newsletter (or sign up before the sale). I immediately jumped on the site and signed up.

Man, am I glad that I did.

The list was extensive, and the prices were amazing (and I honestly thought his prices were good already). Unfortunately, the sale started on a Wednesday, and I didn’t get paid until Friday, so I missed out on a couple fantastic deals (I almost bought them anyway, but I didn’t want my wife to kill me). I was able to grab three .5″ C. darlingi slings ($10 each), three 1.5″ H. incei gold juveniles ($20 each), and one 1.5″ P. regalis juvenile ($25).

Despite the fact that Mr. Jacobi was obviously fielding dozens of emails and pulling stock, his communication was excellent. When a T I wanted had sold out, he responded immediately with the info so that I had an opportunity to quickly adjust my order. Payment info and shipping info was sent promptly, and although I expected a delay in shipping due to the volume of business he was doing, my package was shipped as soon as I gave the go ahead. He even sent a little FAQ-style email with a lot of useful information and tips. Very cool.

Box was well packed and properly labeled to prevent damage.

Packing was excellent, with foam insulation, heating pack, and air bag padding inside the box. Individual tarantulas were well-packed in dram bottles and the drams were then taped up in another layer of thick paper towel for added shock protection.

The box opened and showing the receipt, a business card, and some very cool stickers.

The box opened with the top piece of foam and a couple pieces of padding removed. Spiders are well packed in dram bottles surrounded by a layer of thick paper towel.

The tarantulas themselves were lively and in excellent health. Even cooler, every one I ordered was much larger than I was expecting. The C. darlingis all measured about an inch, and two of the H. inceis were about 1.75″ with the third a beefy 2+”.

And the P. regalis? Well, I haven’t gotten an accurate measurement yet, but this “1.5” inch juvenile is actually over 3″. What a fantastic surprise and a discovery that made this purchase even more of a phenomenal bargain.

One of the three H. incei juveniles purchased from Michael Jacobi. Unfortunately, my picture doesn’t really capture the amazing color.

Speaking of lively, one of the C. darlingi slings launched itself from container after I removed the piece of paper towel blocking holding it in. To say that the little bugger was fast would be an understatement. Luckily, I always work over either a box or large plastic bin to prevent escapes. After leaping from the dram onto my hand, he actually ran off of my hand and right into his new enclosure. Thanks, buddy!

I could not be more pleased with my purchase from Micheal Jacobi’s Spider Shoppe. The prices were amazing, the communication was outstanding, the packing was perfect, and the animals were in great shape. This was an A+ experience, and I would definitely recommend Mr. Jacobi to any enthusiast looking for a professional and trustworthy vendor.

A quick note: as Michael will be travelling extensively over the next several months, his online store will not list tarantulas for sale for time being. Those interested in pricing or ordering will want to sign up for his newsletter.

Tom's Big Spiders

Tarantula Care

pets