Great Basin Serpentarium – A Review

October 22, 2014November 8, 2014 / cancerides / Leave a comment

A fantastic spider shopping experience!

I recently discovered Great Basin Serpentarium while perusing the For Sale/Trade/Want to Buy section on Arachnoboards. I had been on the lookout for some T. stirmi slings, and GBS was offering 1.5 spiderlings for $90 each. Checking out the rest of the list of Ts for sale, I was excited to discover the they were also offering many other species I had been looking for. The prices were quite good, and I was floored to learn that they offered $20 FedEx next day shipping with any order of totaling $100 or more.

I shot the owner, J Mugleston, an email query about a possible purchase, and he got back to me within the hour. In fact, his communication throughout the entire experience was exemplary with all of my emails being answered promptly and politely. Last Friday, I put my order in for seven slings: 2 T. stirmi, 2 P. muticus, 2 M. cabocla, and 1 B. auratum.

Mr. Mugleston worked with me to ship my items to the local FedEx on a day of my choice, and I picked up my package yesterday. The box was labeled “Harmless Invertebrates”, which I though was a nice touch (the clerk at the counter actually handled my package as if it were dynamite!).

My package for GBS. LOVE the labeling!

My new acquisitions were very well packed in a box lined with foam insulation and crumpled newspaper as padding. A heat pack was included, which was great due to the unseasonably cold temps we’ve had in my state. Each spider was packed in a plastic dram vial in moistened paper towel, and the bottle lids were taped with electrical tape. These little guys were well-protected during shipping.

My package from Great Basin Serpentarium. My Ts were warm and very well packed.

I should mention that the way the tarantulas were packed in the vials made it VERY easy to get them out for rehousing. The paper towels were packed in tightly enough to protect the T, but loose enough that towel could be carefully pulled out of the vial and unrolled to safely free the animal. This made rehousing these little guys a breeze.

The vials holding my new slings from GBS. All were well packed and labeled.

The slings themselves were in fantastic shape, and it was obvious that they were healthy and well cared for. All were lively during rehousing, and all but one has already eaten (one of my P. muticus slings was a bit too busy burrowing to grab a snack).

Great prices, communication, and shipping costs!

I could not be more pleased with my experience with Great Basin Serpentarium. The prices, especially with the $20 next day shipping, were fantastic, Mr. Mugleston’s communication was outstanding, my order was perfectly packed, and the animals arrived healthy and lively. I would definitely recommend GBS to other tarantula enthusiasts, and I will definitely be shopping there again in the future.

And…a couple pics of my new acquisitions!

My new .75″ P. muticus sling.

My new 1/5″ T. stirmi sling.

Avicularia Versicolor (Antilles or Martinique Pink Toe)

October 19, 2014November 4, 2018 / cancerides / 6 Comments

One pretty little arboreal…

Despite being very common and established in the hobby, there is perhaps no tarantula available right now, save maybe the T. blondi, that causes owners more stress over the husbandry than the A. versicolor. When I first got into the hobby, I was immediately amazed by this gorgeous arboreal, which starts as a stunningly-blue sling and morphs into a fuzzy, multi-colored adult.

However, my research into its husbandry proved to be frustratingly confusing and contradictory. On one side were the keepers that said this species was difficult to keep due to strict humidity requirements. On the other side were folks who argued that humidity was not as important as good cross ventilation, and that a stuffy, humid cage would prove to be a death sentence for this animal.

Then, there was also the constant mention of SADS, or “Sudden Avic Death Syndrome”, the name of the phenomena where a seemingly healthy Avicularia (often a versicolor) suddenly dies for no apparent reason. The message boards were rife with stories of these little blue spiders curling and dying suddenly and without an obvious cause.

Although these reports made me a bit gun-shy to try this species, I eventually caved and picked up a .75″ sling from Jamie’s Tarantulas. It’s been almost two years since I acquired my Versi, and I’ve found her to be a very rewarding tarantula to keep.

Avicularia versicolor

It’s all about the ventilation

When I first received my little blue versicolor, I was convinced that this fragile little girl would inevitably perish in my care. As Jamie had listed this species as her favorites (and had experience with them), I chose to house this specimen in one of Jamie’s Arboreal spiderling enclosures. These clear rectangular cages sported a round 1″ vent in the front and offered good ventilation (although, no cross ventilation). I used about an inch of moist coco fiber substrate in the bottom and a tall piece of cork bark to encourage webbing. My little versicolor was quick to create a web funnel between the cork and the side of the enclosure, and she spent most of her time in this hide.

Now, about that humidity… Although the substrate started off moist, it soon dried out. As time went on, I would moisten one corner of the enclosure by dribbling water on the web and the coco fiber about twice a week (I did not mist). Occasionally, I would see this specimen drink from water on the web. Although I was still very concerned that the humidity wouldn’t be high enough, the little girl seemed to be thriving in these conditions. She ate very well and was molting every two months like clockwork. Even during the winter months when my furnace was bringing humidity down to the teens, she still ate and molted regularly.

In my experience, high humidity is NOT necessary for older specimens. In fact, many now believe that stuffy, overly-moist enclosures are a death sentence for this species. Instead, good ventilation seems to be key. Once my avic reached about 1.5″ or so, I added a water dish and stopped moistening the substrate. Now that this specimen is about 3.75″, she is kept on dry substrate with the only humidity provided by her water dish.

For temperatures, my A. versicolor was kept between 70 and 76 degrees during the winter and between 72 and 84 during the summer. I did not notice a large difference in growth rate between these two periods. In these temperatures, this species grows at a medium pace, going from .75″ to about 2.5″ in 11 months time. She is now about 3.75-4″ or so, and it was about five months between the latest molts.

A modified Ziploc container that I use to house my A. vesicolor juvenile. Holes have been melted into both sides to provide cross ventilation. A piece of cork park has also been provided for a hide.

A gorgeous spider with a healthy appetite.

From day one, this tarantula has been an awesome eater. As a sling, I would usually use tweezers to load a tiny red racer roach into the bottom of its funnel web to make it easier to find prey (a couple times, I dropped a prey item in on the substrate only to find it alive a few days later). After several months, this cute little girl would come right to the edge of the funnel web whenever I opened her enclosure and take the item right from my tongs. Learned behavior? It sure seemed like it…

As she put on some size, I needed only to drop the item in, and she would eventually locate it. This T has proven to be a veracious eater, taking down larger prey items with ease. Like many of my Ts, this one only refuses a meal when in promolt. She currently feeds on smaller large crickets, and it’s always fun to watch this cute little beauty stalk and take them down.

A stunning tarantula and a must for any collection.

Although she was quite skittish as a sling, my little versicolor is definitely calming down with age. Instead of bolting into her web when I open her enclosure, she now waits patiently as I drop a prey item in or perform maintenance. It has also been very rewarding watching the color changes on this specimen as she has molted, and I eagerly await her adult colors. The A. versicolor is a lovely little gem of a species that, with the right care (ventilation!) will thrive and delight for many years.

These pics were literally snapped about 12 hours apart. Obviously, there was a molt in between.

Tarantula Sling Enclosures

October 11, 2014November 28, 2014 / cancerides / 7 Comments

Now that I’ve got my new sling, what do I house it in?

When I made the decision to purchase my first tarantula slings, I next needed to choose which enclosures I would use to house my new acquisitions. I had researched many alternatives, from deli cups to dram bottles, and I wanted to be sure to choose something that would allow me to maintain the appropriate environments my spider’s would need. Too much ventilation and I would risk the enclosure, and my T, drying out. Not enough ventilation, and the stuffy, overly-moist conditions could prove a death trap. I also had concerns about security; namely, would my T be able to escape from ventilation holes (or would the design of the home make it easy fro the spider to scoot out when it was opened for feeding or cleaning?).

As luck would have it, my first sling purchase was made at Jamie’s Tarantulas, and I took advantage of a couple deals she was running that included both a sling and one of her wonderful sling enclosures. I still use these enclosures, as they offer many perks that I will get to later. However, since then, I’ve done a lot of experimenting with other types of homes for my slings, and I’ve discovered some “found enclosures” that are also quite useful and versatile. So, if you’re on the lookout for a good sling enclosure, you may consider the following.

Deli Cups

A couple simple deli cups. Note: if using these to house a sling, I would not use the screened top as it would allow for too much airflow.

Deli cups are an enclosure staple in the hobby, and for good reason. They are inexpensive, versatile, come in many sizes, and are easily-acquired. They are also stack-able, which can allow those with large collections to easily conserve space. Full disclosure: I personally don’t use deli cups to house my Ts; I have always used other alternatives. But to ignore deli cups on a list of suitable alternatives would be ridiculous.

PROS:

Inexpensive
Come in many sizes
Readily available
Versatile
Easily adapted
Stack-able

CONS

Not the most attractive (for those looking to display)

Jamie’s Tarantulas Spiderling Enclosures

Three sling enclosures from Jamies tarantulas. I have a dozen of these, and I love them.

To date, I’ve purchased about a dozen of these, and I still love and use them. For those buying slings from Jamie’s site, picking up one of these little beauties is almost an academic decision. Not only do they look great, but for a very reasonable $7.95, you get all the fixings, too (cork bark, silk plant, coco substrate, and moss), which is SO convenient. They look great on a shelf, and I’ve safely housed over 20 slings in them without incident.

Before using one of these enclosures for the first time, you will want to open and close it several times, as the cover fit can be quite stiff initially. Personally, I like how you can basically “hinge” the top on the bottom when feeding Ts, which keeps the opening small and prevents escapes. She sells these enclosures in both terrestrial and arboreal versions.

PROS:

Very convenient when purchasing slings from Jamie’s site
Good value with all of the fixings
Gorgeous display enclosure
Very secure
Good visibility
No modifications needed
Rectangular shape and top vents means you can fit many on a small shelf

CONS:

Can be pricey when compared to “found enclosure” alternatives
Can’t be stacked on each other.

Plastic Dram Vials

Plastic vials used to house small slings.

Like the deli cups, plastic dram vials are used by many keepers to house their slings. They are inexpensive, easily adapted, and fantastic for keeping in precious humidity. Plastic dram vials come in many sizes, including very small sizes perfect for tiny slings. Pictured above are two that are currently housing 1/2″ Hapalopus sp. Columbia slings, and a smaller dram which is home to a 2/5″ B. albopilosum sling. All of these slings started off much too small for my other enclosures, and the smaller sizes of the plastic drams proved the perfect alternative.

PROS:

Inexpensive
Readily available
Come in many sizes (Great for tiny slings)
Secure
Easily adapted
Wonderful for holding in moisture
Great visibility

CONS:

Not safely stack-able

Ziploc Twist n Lock Storage Containers

Modified Ziploc storage containers. These are very versatile and can be used to house burrowing, terrestrial, and arboreal Ts.

I started using these several months ago after buying a boatload of plastic containers at Walmart to experiment with as enclosures. Since then, they have quickly become my go to enclosure for slings 1″ or larger. Although they come in two sizes, I have switched almost exclusively to the taller size shown above. As you can see, you can fill it with more substrate, meaning burrowing species can dig elaborate burrows (H. gigas), or use less substrate and a piece of cork bark for arboreal species (the P. metallica on the right).

These enclosures are easily modified with a hot nail or soldering iron, and they are wonderful at holding in moisture. They feature secure, twisting lids that offer wonderful security, and they are stack-able, which is great for space-saving. At about $2.50 for two, they are also very inexpensive. I love using these for faster-growing species, like my Phomictopus, as they are roomier than other enclosures and allow more room for growth.

PROS:

Inexpensive
Very versatile (can work for burrowing or arboreal)
Secure
Easily adapted
Stack-able
Attractive

CONS

Blue lid makes it tough to see in from the top

Just the tip of the iceberg…

These are, by no means, all of the possiblities out there. Tarantula message boards are rife with other examples of “found enclosures” that keepers have used. It’s fun to experiment with different types of cages, so creativity should definitely be explored. Just keep in mind that a good cage should:

Be secure
Be appropriately sized
Able to maintain the optimal environment inside
Appropriately ventilated

I will continue to try to find new and interesting enclosures, and if anything should prove particularly effective, I will definitely add it to this list.

H. villosella Death – Tarantula Impaction?

September 27, 2014October 18, 2014 / cancerides / 2 Comments

Not the way I wanted to begin my Friday evening.

For the past several weeks, I have been keeping an eye on my Heterothele villosella (Tanzanian Chestnut Baboon) sling, as its behavior after a recent molt had become abnormal. I had received this wonderful little tarantula as a freebie several months back, and it immediately impressed me with its vicious appetite and beautiful webbing. Like many of my Ts, this one would only refuse food while in premolt.

My H. villosella, alive and well, after a recent molt. Despite only eating twice, its abdomen was still remarkably plump.

Well, after this specimen refused a meal about two months ago, I assumed it was in premolt. Sure enough, it emerged after a week of hiding a little bit larger and sporting fresh colors. As this particular sling was usually ravenous after a molt, I offered it a small cricket, which it took no problem. Another cricket was offered a few days later with similar results. She was back to eating well.

I dropped the third cricket in about two weeks after she emerged from her last molt, and I was surprised to find the cricket alive and kicking the next morning.

Hmmm…

I waited a few more days before offering another cricket. This, too, was rejected. Now, I’ve had many tarantulas change their eating habits after a recent molt, so I wasn’t particularly concerned yet. I made sure to wet down part of the substrate in the enclosure to keep the humidity up, and waited another week to try again. Again, no dice. Despite being a great eater in the past, this T had inexplicably stopped eating, and during the warm months of summer when even my most picky specimens were ravenous.

More odd behavior.

About three weeks ago, my H. villosella started spending a lot of time out in the open. For the first six months I had this spider, I rarely saw it out of its heavily-webbed den, and when I did, it was usually in the early morning after I turned the lights on. The slightest bump would send it scurrying back inside its burrow.

However, this T was now out all the time and wouldn’t flee even when I picked up its enclosure. In many ways, I found this new behavior more alarming than its lack of appetite. I was pleased, however, to see that despite having only eaten twice, its abdomen was actually fairly plump.

I also noticed this T dragging its abdomen on the ground and on the side of the enclosure. I first thought that it was just webbing, but there didn’t seem to be any webbing coming out of it. The H. villosella was also using its back legs to rub its rear, something that didn’t seem particularly worrisome by itself, but proved concerning when added to the other odd behaviors.

With little I could do, I kept sprinkled water on the side of the enclosure daily to give it something to drink and kept it under close observation. It continued to hang out in the open, and this once speedy little spider was much more sluggish and calm.

Unfortunately, it wasn’t able to recover.

When I arrived home from work yesterday, I was saddened to find the little guy in a partial death curl. As a precaution (it is sometimes difficult to determine if they are truly dead), I put it into an ICU to see if it might be “revived”. While moving the T, I noticed something I hadn’t seen before. The area around its anus was caked with bit of white stool. Also, there was a white “plug” partially protruding from it.

My H. villosella sling in an ICU. Unfortunately, it did not make it.

Suddenly, it seemed more clear as to what probably happened to this unfortunate T. I had read about other keepers losing tarantulas to fecal impactions, but I had never experienced it myself. An impaction occurs when the Ts anus becomes blocked, prohibiting it from evacuating its waste.

In some of these instances, the T will essentially eat itself to death as the waste compounds inside it until it dies. In some instances, the animal stops eating after a molt, yet it’s abdomen remains large and bloated. In this instance, it’s suspected that a complication with the molt causes the issue. Other symptoms reported are sluggishness and unusual grooming of its backside, especially around the anus.

When a tarantula is showing signs of a fecal impaction, there is little a keeper can do. Some recommend using a paper towel or cotton swab moistened with warm water to try to wipe away and loosen up any feces that may be blocking the anus. In my case, I don’t know if this would have worked due to the very small size of the specimen.

I checked on the T this morning to see if its condition had improved over night, but it was in the same position it had been in the night before. Unfortunately, it had passed. Can I be positive that it was a fecal impaction that killed it. No. However, I have made no changes in husbandry in the last six months, and it had been healthy and seemingly thriving until its last molt, so I’m convinced it wasn’t something I did. It also displayed many of the common symptoms of an impaction, which lend more credence to the theory.

A dead H. villosella sling. Notice the white around the anus, and the yellowish spot that formed beneath the corpse (likely feces loosened by the moist towel).

For those who may fear that they have a tarantula suffering from this malady, I will list the symptoms my T exhibit in hopes that it helps in identification.

Symptoms that indicated fecal compaction:

Diminished appetite (food refusal)
Plump, hard abdomen (even after not eating much)
Dragging abdomen and rubbing it on substrate without laying web
Excessive grooming of anus area with back legs
Sluggishness and decreased activity
White “plug” protruding from anus
White stool around anus

Stamps Tarantula – A Review

September 6, 2014September 6, 2014 / cancerides / Leave a comment

The first of what will prove to be many purchases.

I had first discovered Steven Stamps several months ago on Arachnoboards where he had posted several tarantulas for sale on the For Sale/Trade/Want to Buy board. I was immediately impressed with his prices and the number of species he had available, and a quick look through his review thread revealed pages of glowing testimonials. It wasn’t until last month that I stumbled on his newly-launched web store with a $50 unsexed T. stirmi sub-adult for sale that I would finally make my first purchase from him.

The first, but definitely not the last.

A diverse offering of Ts at awesome prices.

The first thing that struck me about his site was the number of tarantulas he had available and the diversity of his stock. He had everything from rarer Aphonopelma, Avicularia, and Lasiodora species, to the more common Poecilotheria or Brachypelma species. There was definitely something for every type of collector. There were also several females for sale for anyone looking for breeders. His prices were fantastic overall, with many species selling for much less than I’ve seen elsewhere.

Communication was great, and all of my emails to him were answered in a matter of hours. Mr. Stamps was kind enough to hold the T. stirmi for me after paying so that I could add a few more tarantulas to the purchase in a couple weeks to get more out of my shipping costs. I though that was a fantastic gesture. He also worked with me to ship my package on a particular day so that I could be sure I would be home to receive it.

Top notch shipping and packing!

My animals were shipped next day, and the package arrived safe and sound. The Ts were expertly packed in a foam-lined box with plenty of padding and even a cold pack to protect the tarantulas from the high temperatures. The individual Ts were safely nestled away in either large deli cups (for the T. stirmi) or plastic dram bottles (for the H. lividum, L. difficilis, and G. pulchripes slings) and padded with newspaper. Stamps also included an awesome flashlight as a free gift.

Very cool.

A package from Stamps Tarantulas.

The package from Stamps, obviously well padded and insulated with foam.

My package from Stamps. Notice how well-packed the specimens are.

The contents of the box removed.

The animals themselves were in excellent shape, with all four emerging lively and sporting plump abdomens. Three of the Ts ate the first night; the fourth was in premolt, but has since molted and ate. It has been a few weeks, and all are doing fine. I was particularly impressed with the condition of the T. stirmi. I had seen many pictures of larger T. stirmi being sold that looked thin or haggard, and I worried a bit that my new acquistion might need some TLC. This beast, however, was was in AMAZING shape, and has acclimated to his new enclosure smoothly.

My new T. stirmi shortly after being housed.

A great new online dealer.

I was 100% satisfied with my first purchase from Stamps Tarantulas, and I’m already planning my next order. Mr. Stamps carries a variety of species at great prices, and his communication, packing, and shipping are all top of the line. He has also proven willing to work with customers, which is always a plus. I highly recommend this vendor!

VISIT STAMPS TARANTULAS

As with most vendors, be sure to sign up for the newsletter to receive information on new stock and awesome promotions.

Hapalopus sp. Colombia – The “Pumpkin Patch”

August 31, 2014September 14, 2016 / cancerides / 22 Comments

A gorgeous little dwarf tarantula with plenty of attitude!

I was first introduced to this amazing little species by a Viper69, a member of the Arachnoboards forum. I was on the lookout for new and beautiful tarantulas to add to my growing collection, and Viper69 was kind enough to send me pics of his own Hapalopus sp. Colombia large (tarantula enthusiasts love to spread their addiction!). I was immediately floored by the appearance of this unique T. As orange is one of my favorite colors, I was enamored by the bright orange abdominal markings that lend this animal its common name of “Pumpkin Patch”. The fact that they were known to be hearty captives with huge appetites and fast growth rates made this “pygmy” species jump up to the top of my wish list.

Young adult female Hapalopus sp. Columbia large

Young adult female Hapalopus sp. Colombia large

Well, several months ago, I finally procured a trio these feisty little spiders from Autumn’s Eight-Legged Experience. I was amazed to discover that, even in the sling stage, these little guys already sported their adult coloration. I’ve been used to slings that look MUCH different from their adult counterparts, so this was definitely a unique trait and a wonderful surprise.

One of my three Hapalopus sp. Columbia large slings.

Keep that “Pumpkin Patch” moist.

As my slings started at about 3/8″ long, I housed these guys in 30 dram bottles with tiny ventilation holes poked into the top with a small needle. This is a species that requires a bit of extra moisture, so for substrate, I used a mixture of moist (not wet) coco fiber mixed with peat moss. For added moisture retention—and to supply a place to hide—I also added a pinch of sphagnum moss. Using the handle of a paintbrush, I also created little starter burrows down the side of each enclosure.

These little guys were quick to settle in, adopting the pre-dug burrows while webbing up the entrances. Within days, all three had dug extensive underground burrows, and two had begun webbing on the surface. Unlike some of my “pet hole” species, as slings these guys usually bolted out of their dens and into the open whenever their enclosures were disturbed. They are quite bold for little spiders.

Check out my husbandry video for this species below!

As young adults, all three are currently kept in ½ gallon enclosures made from repurposed Sterilite plastic storage bins. Although they were given several inches of moist substrate and cork bark burrows, they used their webbing and some sphagnum moss to create their own homes. All have water bowls, and I moisten down the substrate once a month or so by simulating rain with a make-shift watering bottle.

Hapalopus sp. Columbia Large young adult enclosure. This one is about 1/2 gallon.

All three have webbed up their enclosures heavily. They are not particularly shy, and they have no problem sitting right out in the open waiting for prey. This is particularly nice, because this is a truly unique and beautiful tarantula. Haplalopus sp. Colombia is a very fast and skittish species, though, and they will bolt to their dens when disturbed. Care should be shown every time their enclosure is opened for feeding or maintenance.

Voracious eaters with amazing appetites.

When I first acquired my slings, they were still too tiny to take down small crickets, I cut two crickets in half and dropped in the smaller pieces for them to scavenge feed on. All three greedily accepted their pre-killed meals. To date, they have proven to be voracious eaters, only refusing meals when in pre-molt. Once they reached about 1/2″ in size, they were able to easily take down a small cricket on their own.

Kept between 70-76 degrees during the winter and 75-80 degrees during the summer, and fed two times a week, they grew quite quickly. During the first six months, they molted about every month and a half. In 11 months, they’ve grown from 3/8″ to about 2.25″.

I currently feed each of my sub-adults one medium cricket twice a week. When in premolt, they will stop eating and generally become more reclusive, hiding out in their dens and staying out of sight.

Males mature quickly, with mine hooking out at about 11 months at about 2.25″. Females will live longer, reaching a max size of about 3.5-4″. There is a smaller “dwarf” version of this species that reaches a max size of about 2″, but the Colombia Large is not quite small enough to be a true dwarf.

A stunning species for the keeper used to fasts ‘n feisty Ts.

Hapalopus sp. Colombia may be a small species, but what they lack in size, they make up for in attitude and personality. H. sp. larges are generally recognized as being fast and defensive, with many keepers also branding them as escape artists that will make a mad dash for any opening. Mine have actually proven to be quite well behaved, choosing to retreat to their burrows rather than try to escape.

Although this species is a bit high-strung, none of mine have shown any aggression. I do think that a beginner with some experience could keep this species if she/he is cognizant about their speed and care. They are very hardy, and their great appetites and quick growth rate make them an ideal species to raise from sling to adult.

M. balfouri Feeding Video

August 26, 2014 / cancerides / Leave a comment

Look who stepped out for a bite!

Of all the species I currently keep, my little M. balfouri juveniles have been some of the more quirky and reclusive. After all three buried themselves for several months during the cold of winter, they emerged in the spring with better appetites and slightly less coy dispositions. I now see all three regularly, and I’ve even been afforded the opportunity to see two of them eat. That’s a pretty big deal considering that, from November to March, I didn’t even SEE them at all.

Well, after its recent molt, one of my M. balfouri juveniles has become extra bold, often coming out of his den to hunt, and remaining in the open even when I jostle his cage while feeding him. My first attempt to catch him feeding on film proved to be an epic failure as I ended up catching only the cover of his cage. However, I fared much better with the second attempt, and managed to catch him gently grabbing a cricket I tossed in (sorry, no brutal take-downs in this one). Although it starts off a bit blurry, I do adjust the framing several seconds in.

For anyone who wants to read more about this species, click here!

Now, onto the video…

Phlogius crassipes (Australian Barking Spider)

August 23, 2014April 22, 2016 / cancerides / 2 Comments

A tarantula from down under!

My 2.5″ P. crassipes sling.

Anyone who grew up watching Steve Irwin, AKA ‘The Crocodile Hunter”, knows that Australia is home to some of the most stunning and awe-inspiring wildlife on the planet. Heck, I still own the carpet python I bought after seeing him handle (and get bit!) by one. When I stumbled across my first photo of a species of tarantula from Phlogius genus, and discovered that it was from Australia, I knew that I would eventually keep one.

With a common name of “Eastern Tarantula” or the more colorful variations of “Queensland Whistling Spider” or “Australian Barking Spider”, this thick-legged Old World species can reach lengths of 8 inches. It earned the name “whistling” or “barking” spider because this species stridulates, or uses hairs on its body to produce a loud “hissing” sound when it’s agitated. And for those who don’t heed this warning, its large fangs can deliver a potent bite.

Deep, moist substrate = happy spider!

I purchased a 1.5″ sling from Anastasia at Net-Bug back in April of this year, and it has quickly become one of my favorite species. So far, my P. crassipes has been a fast-growing species, molting twice in my care and putting on about an inch in size. As a sling, it started off as a chocolate brown color, although as an adult it will be mature into a smoky dark brown/black coloration.

In Australia, this species lives in deep, moist burrows and enjoys a higher-humidity environment. Keeping that in mind, I gave my sling an enclosure with four inches of moist substrate so that it could create its own burrow. I set the enclosure up in much the same way I do with all of my moisture-dependent species. After laying a half inch of wet vermiculite on the bottom, I then packed down a mixture of peat moss and coco fiber with some vermiculite added for water retention and percolation. I don’t add too much vermiculite as it can make the soil difficult to pack for the burrowing species.

The soil should be moist, but not wet. A good test is to squeeze your mixture in your hand. If you can squeeze water out of it, it’s too moist. However, if it sticks together and holds its shape without water dripping from it, it’s just right.

The enclosure itself is a modified plastic Sterilite storage container. I keep a water bowl in the enclosure at all times, and I will re-moisten the substrate once a week. I do not spray, but rather use a clean water bottle with holes melted in the top to “make it rain”, so to speak. I also allow water to dribble down into the burrow. This keeps the lower levels of his den moist, and keeps the humidity in the enclosure up as it slowly evaporates.

The custom enclosure for my P. crassipes sling.

For temperatures, my P. crassipes is kept between 72 and 78º. Although I’ve read reports of people keeping them at higher temperatures (mid-80s is mentioned quite a bit), I’ve found that mine has been thriving with more moderate highs and lows.

A lightning-fast eating machine!

Within a day, my P. crassipes had dug a burrow all the way down to the bottom of the enclosure with two different entrances. It then created a “volcano” shaped structure over the top of the substrate and webbed around this. He likes to sit at the top of this construct with his legs just poking out as he waits for prey. As soon as a prey item hits the substrate, he tenses up and prepares to hunt.

This species has proven to be a fantastic eater. It receives 2-3 medium crickets a week, and so far it has yet to refuse a meal. When I once dropped in a large cricket, this amazing little predator had no problem snatching it up. Speaking of snatching up prey…

These guys are FAST.

Besides more specific moisture requirements and an Old World bite potency, keepers need to be aware of this species’ speed. I’ve been dazzled on a couple occasions by just how fast my little guy can move. I once watched him bolt out of his “volcano”, snatch up a cricket, and retreat back into his den in a blink of an eye.

The footage below was meant to be a feeding video, but he unfortunately didn’t snag the cricket here. Still, it serves as a wonderful example of just how quickly they can move. So far, my sling is more skittish than defensive, although this could change at any time. With his speed, this T could easily bolt out of his enclosure if I’m not careful.

A fantastic tarantula for those who like thick, sleek, fast species.

The P. crassipes’ potent bite, skittish and sometimes defensive nature, and tremendous speed mean that this guy probably isn’t for the novice keeper. Those use to keeping slower, more docile species might find the crassipes a bit overwhelming. However, any keeper experienced with faster Old World Ts would likely find the P. crassipes to be an amazing and rewarding animal to keep.

T. Stirmi Custom Enclosure (In Progress)

August 19, 2014August 20, 2014 / cancerides / Leave a comment

The magic of trial an error.

With a 4-5″ Theraposa strimi (Burgundy Bird Eater) on the way, I needed to create a custom cage that would allow me to maintain proper conditions for this animal, namely the higher humidity requirements. I’ve experimented with many smaller setups, and have had good luck maintaining the right balance of airflow circulation and humidity for my moisture-loving species.

However, this enclosure would need to be a much larger. Plus, as Theraphosa require moist soil and consistently higher humidity levels, I needed to make sure that whatever I came up with was working out before my new T arrived.

It’s been about a week since I put it together and, with some experimentation and “revisions”, it is now working great. Waiting to have the T ship until I finished proved to be an incredibly prudent move, as this cage soon became a work in progress. For those interested, here is what I did:

The Materials

I started with a Ziploc 60-Quart Large Watertight Storage Box, which I purchased at Walmart for about $17. This container is quite spacious (23″L x 17″ W x 11″ T) and has six locking clasps around the edges. Nothing will be able to squeeze under the lid of this one. The lid also has a foam gasket in it to prevent precious moisture from escaping. This will make an excellent home until my T gains some more size.

Ziploc 60-qt Storage Bin Modified.

For the initial venting, I used four 3″ white circular plastic vents that I had purchased from roundvents.com for $1.32 each. Using a 3″ hole saw and my power drill, I cut two holes on each of the long sides of the container (Note: if you don’t have a hole saw, you can trace the vents, then use a regular bit to drill a series of holes all round the edge. Then, using a sharp utility knife, just make cuts and connect the holes). I then glued the vents in place using Aquarium Silicone. To promote cross-ventilation, I positioned the vents on opposite sides of the enclosure.

Ziploc 60-Quart plastic storage bin with two 3″ plastic vents installed on each side.

As the T. blondi will need to kept in moist soil, and I will have to add water from time to time to keep the humidity up, I experimented with soils a bit before coming up with the formula I used. I combined Scotts organic topsoil ($2.10) with organic peat moss ($9.99) mixed at about a 60/40 ratio. To this mixture, I then added several cups of vermiculite ($3.99) to help with water retention and percolation. (Note: As the topsoil comes in .75 cubic feet bags, and the peat moss comes in a huge 3 cubic foot bag, there is plenty of substrate left over for other enclosures).

I added water to this mixture until it was damp enough that it would hold its shape when squeezed, but not so wet that water would run out of it. After adding about 1/2″ of moist vermiculite on the bottom of the enclosure to hold moisture, I packed down about 5-6″ of my substrate mixture on top of it.

For a hide, I purchased a 3″ PVC elbow from Lowes for about $2.76. I wanted something that wouldn’t decompose or mold in the moist soil, hence why I didn’t use cork bark. I turned the elbow on its side, angling one end up for the entrance and pointing the other end toward the substrate. I then buried this, making sure that there was a bit of a hide, but leaving some dirt in it for the T to clear. The T. stirmi can now continue to enlarge his burrow by digging through the submerged end.

3″ diameter white PVC elbow hide.

Finally, I added a large plastic water dish which I had on hand, as well as some long-fiber organic sphagnum moss to help with moisture retention. I also mounted a humidity gauge on the side of the enclosure to give me a rough estimate of what the humidity was inside.

With all of this done, I closed up the new enclosure and set it on the shelf for two days to see if it would maintain the correct level of humidity without spawning mold. I was looking to maintain a humidty level between 70 and 80% at about a 75º temperature.

Back to the drawing board.

During this trial run, the humidity in my home was around 75%, and the humidity inside the enclosure was steady at about 88%. When I opened it up after about two days, I immediately detected the slightest smell of mold or mildew. A closer inspection revealed that there was some light molding around the long-grain sphagnum moss. I removed the moss and left the cover off of the enclosure for a day to let some excess moisture evaporate. I later added a much thinner coat of moistened moss.

Obviously, the four vents I had installed wouldn’t be enough to allow for proper ventilation. Time for adjustments…

Using a 5/16″ drill bit, I drilled about 10 holes in the ends opposite where I installed the vents. I was hoping these would supply much needed cross-ventilation and prevent the humidity from remaining so high that mold and mildew occurred.

With these changes made, I closed up the enclosure and left it to sit another day.

Revision three

After about 24 hours, I took the cage out again. During this period, the humidity inside the cage was lower but still in the mid 80s. This wasn’t bad, but if the humidity in my home went up, so would the humidity in the enclosure, leading to levels that would promote mold growth.

This time I added about 15 more holes on each side and sealed it up again to see if this would lower the humidity even further. So far, so good! The humidity is holding right around 78% (the humidity in my home is around 64%)

Holes drilled for extra ventilation during the humid summer months.

As the humidity levels here can hit 80%, I may drill a few more holes in preparation for those really humid days. In the winter, our furnace dries out the air causing the humidity to plummet to the high teens. When this happens, I will use plastic and tape to cover up some of the holes to restrict some of the airflow and to prevent the cage from drying out.

Preparation and planning was key.

Had I tried to put this cage together without allowing myself time to experiment, this could have been a nightmare. I can’t even imagine trying to clean out the cage and make alterations while a 5″ T. stirmi was lurking inside. As humidity levels can vary depending on time of year and location, I would advise anyone setting up an enclosure for one of the moisture-dependent species to allow themselves some time to monitor levels and to make adjustments as needed. I have two more days before this beauty arrives, so I will continue to keep an eye on the humidity and make more changes as needed.

To be continued…

How Do I Know if My Tarantula Is in Premolt?

August 11, 2014November 28, 2014 / cancerides / 245 Comments

Don’t panic…learn to watch for the signs.

Fewer facets of tarantula keeping can cause more excitement and confusion for the novice keeper than premolt. This is the point where the tarantula usually stops eating for a bit and prepares its body for the stresses of molting its exoskeleton. As part of the joy of keeping tarantulas is experiencing their growth, an impending molt should be a joyous occasion.

However, as many newer keepers aren’t familiar with what premolt entails or looks like, it can also be a confusing situation that leads to worry and stress. Couple this with the fact that premolt periods can drag on for weeks, and you have the makings of a concerned keeper.

Part of the issue is because we have all grown up keeping pets that need to be fed daily in order to stay healthy. So, when our beloved little spider suddenly stops eating for several weeks, years of experience preys on our nerves and the worrying begins. Should I try feeding again? Does she need more water? Is the enclosure too large? Is she sick? Should I dig her out of her den? These are the questions that dog the novice keeper as he watches his pet, waiting for some sign that everything is totally normal.

I went through it myself the first time my little L. parahybana sling suddenly closed off the entrance to its den and buried itself for over a month. I worried that the poor little guy was trapped by a cave-in or had died. Luckily, I chose to leave him alone instead of trying to dig him out, as when he finally reappeared it was with a new exoskeleton and an extra 1/4″ of length. Since then, I’ve learned to observe and recognize the signs of premolt.

Are you thinking that your specimen might be in premolt? Here are some telltale signs to look for…

1. The tarantula stops eating

This is probably the most obvious and common sign. You’ve been feeding your specimen regularly for several weeks, and suddenly it stops eating. Most species will stop feeding during their premolt period (although there are exceptions) as they prepare their bodies for the arduous process.

That is not to say that a tarantula might not stop feeding for other reasons. The G. rosea is known to fast for long periods of time, even when not in premolt. A stressed tarantula may also refuse food. Therefore, consider some of the other signs as well.

2. The tarantula has a fat, shiny abdomen

Most tarantulas ready for premolt will sport nice, plump abdomens up to 1.5 times the size of their carapace (or even larger for an over-stuffed specimen). If your tarantula has a nice, bulbous booty, and she has stopped eating, chances are she’s in premolt. As the flesh around the area stretches, the abdomen may also appear to be shiny.

The shininess is often more evident in slings than their older, much hairier counterparts. My little G. pulchripes, G. rosea, and L. parahybana slings all get “shiny hineys” whenever they are entering premolt. My P. cancerides slings and juveniles look like little grapes ready to pop when they are in premolt.

A female LP in premolt. Notice the shiny abdomen. This is particularly noticeable as she has kicked all the hair off. Also, the abdomen is very dark.

3.The tarantula’s abdomen and overall color darkens.

As the new exoskeleton forms under the old one, the spider will often darken up a bit. This is particularly evident on the abdomen where new hairs can be seen through the stretched skin here. Many of my slings will have a dark spot on their abdomens when in premolt, and it will continue to grow the closer they get to the actual molt. For species that do a lot of hair kicking and therefore have a bald spot, this darkening is especially evident.

G. rosea sling in premolt. Notice the large, shiny, and dark abdomen.

My L. itabunae in premolt. Notice the shiny abdomen and the dark patch forming .

4. The tarantula becomes slower and more lethargic.

Not all of the indicators are physical; an observant keeper should notice some behavioral changes as well. Besides not eating, most of my tarantulas that are in premolt become less active and often more secretive. Keep an eye on your tarantula, and along with the physical signs listed above, look for a change in behavior. Some of my most hyper species become noticeably sluggish when they are in premolt. For example, my GBBs tend to be fast little buggers who are constantly moving around their enclosures. However, when in premolt, they often become much more sedentary, sitting in one spot and often tucking themselves away behind their cork bark. Speaking of secretive…

5. The tarantula has buried itself in its den.

I frequent the Arachnoboards forum, and there is usually at least a post a week by a concerned keeper who wants to know if his/her buried T is okay. Heck, this is the situation that caused me alarm when my LP buried itself during a molt. Many tarantulas will retreat to their burrows and close of the entrances when entering a premolt period. My LP slings, M. balfouri juveniles, and G. pulchripes slings all bury themselves before a molt. Some things to consider if your T buries itself due to premolt.

They are not in danger.

They will not suffocate.

They have not been buried alive.

They do not need to be rescued.

The tarantula is just looking for some privacy and security during this vulnerable period. The tarantula will reopen its den once is has molted and hardened up. DO NOT freak out and try to dig the poor creature out; you only run the risk of distressing the animal and possibly interrupting its molt.

6. The tarantula has constructed a hammock-like web “mat” in its enclosure.

This web is referred to as a “molt mat”, and it is where the tarantula will flip over on its back when it molts. You may catch your premolt T laying layer after layer of web in a small area, and some of the new world species will actually kick hairs on the web as a form of protection. If you see this behavior, it means that your tarantula is about to molt very soon, usually within a day. For arboreal species, they will sometime build elevated “hammocks” off the ground for their molt mats or seal themselves in their funnel webs. This behavior serves the same purpose.

My female LP during a recent molt. Notice the molt mat on the left hand side of the photo.

One more thing to remember for those who have not witnessed a tarantula molt…

IF IT IS ON ITS BACK, IT IS NOT DEAD!

That’s right, this is normal behavior; this is the position they get in to molt.

DO NOT touch a spider in this position.

DO NOT flip over a spider in this position.

DO NOT throw away, flush, or bury a spider in this position.

DO NOT blow on it.

DO NOT spray it with water.

DO leave it alone and let it complete the exhausting task of molting in peace. Molting is a natural occurrence for a tarantula, but it is also a period where they are quite vulnerable. Any fiddling with the animal could prove deadly to the T.

Hopefully, the photos and explanations above will help other keepers recognize and enjoy their tarantulas’ premolt without worry. Keep in mind, there is no set time for how long a tarantula can be in premolt. For slings, it can take anywhere from couple weeks to a month. Adult species can often spend several months in premolt. My 3.5″ B. smithi stopped eating and secluded herself for two months before finally molting. Conversely, my 3.5″ L. parahybana female molted two weeks after her last meal. Don’t panic if your animal takes a while; it’s a very natural process, and it will molt when it is ready.

And, for anyone curious as to what a tarantula molt looks like, please check out the following video.