With the warmer summer weather, and temperatures now consistently in the mid-80s, my tarantulas’ metabolisms have kicked into high gear. This means more eating, more growing, and more molting. In the past two weeks alone, 14 of my spiders have molted, and some of Ts I picked up as .75″ slings are now creeping closer to their adult colorations.
My juvenile C. cyaneopubescens (or GBB), one of the first two slings I purchased as a .75″ sling in October of 2013 is now 2.5+” and is sporting more of the adult orange on its abdomen and more blue on its legs.
2.5″ after a recent molt.
My juvenile P. cancerides (Haitian Brown) also molted again. What once was a striking little dark blue sling is now a 3″ juvenile will beautiful bronze and pink tones. These little guys have rapidly become one of my favorite species, and I very much enjoy watching the color changes as they grow into adults.
3″ P. cancerides after a recent molt.
Both of these Ts have undergone amazing color changes as they molt toward adulthood, and I will be eagerly awaiting what metamorphosis the next molts will bring.
After being burned once on a transaction with a private party selling Ts, I’ve been a bit gun-shy to order from anyone but established and reputable dealers. However, while perusing the For Sale/Trade/Want To Buy section of arachnoboards, I stumbled on an ad for .5″ Hapalopus sp. Columbia Large (Pumpkin Patch) slings for an amazing price of $18 each.
Now, I had been pricing this species out for months, and the cheapest I had found them for was about $35 for 1/3″. I knew the vendor, Autumn, from the boards, but I wasn’t aware that she had started selling. I checked her review thread, and found glowing reviews going back several months.
Interested, I clicked on a link to a very clean website offering several types of slings and many cool sling packages. The prices were outstanding, and the shipping charges were the lowest I had seen. For $10, she was offering Priority shipping with LAG. Even better, if you spent $50, Priority shipping was FREE. Wow. For those who didn’t want to chance a two-day journey, Autumn also offered overnight shipping for a very reasonable $35.
I ordered three Hapalopus sp. Columbia large slings. Not only were the spiders VERY reasonably priced, but I got the free Priority shipping with LAG on my purchase as it was over $50. On top of that, I even got a free B. albopilosum sling. To call this transaction a bargain would be an understatement.
Autumn’s communication throughout the entire transaction was amazing; she is very pleasant and affable. Corresponding via text (phone is also an option), she kept me updated on my order and even asked which freebie I wanted. The tracking information was texted directly to me, which was very convenient.
Shipping was prompt, and the packing was EXCELLENT. The slings were first nestled safely inside straws, then the straws were wrapped in moist paper towel and enclosed in a larger dram bottle. The bottle was packed and padded in a foam-lined Priority box. These little guys were very well protected.
Packing from Autumn’s Eight-Legged Experience.
Packing from Autumn’s Eight-Legged Experience. The box is foam-lined and the slings are cushioned by bags.
A peek inside the dram bottle shows the straws containing the Ts. These are cushioned by moistened paper towel.
The straws containing my tiny slings. This was a wonderful packing job.
My new acquisitions arrived lively and in great shape; it’s obviously that they have been well cared for. Three of the slings have already taken a prey item.
I won’t hesitate to order from Autumn again, and I highly recommend her. Her prices, service, and packing are EXCELLENT. I’m glad to have discovered this new dealer. Visit Autumn’s Eight Legged Experience Now!
A 1/2″ H. sp. Columbia sling purchased from Autumn’s Eight-Legged Experience.
Anyone who has done a search for tarantula information or care sheets has likely stumbled upon links to the Arachnoboards forum. When I first started researching the hobby, I found that many of my Google searches inevitably brought me to this wonderful forum, and it wasn’t long before I decided to sign up.
If there is a place online with more useful information about tarantula keeping, I’ve yet to find it. The forum is populated by seasoned hobbyists and novices alike, and the amount of information shared and exchanged on any given day is impressive. It’s a wonderful community where posters can discuss the hobby and mingle with others who enjoy keeping tarantulas. There are discussion boards, picture threads and galleries, dealer reviews, classifieds, as well as many other useful boards and topics.
A few tips for getting the most out of the boards.
1. Sign up! This may seem obvious, but it is very easy to just lurk on the site without every signing up. Unfortunately, if you don’t sign up, you are not able to see some of the boards, including the classifieds or dealer sections. You definitely don’t want to miss out on the many deals to be found on these boards. Also, if you’re not signed up, you can’t post or look up member profiles (two thing that you might find useful later on).
2. Do your homework! Although there are a number of knowledgeable and helpful members on the boards who will happily respond to your questions, that doesn’t mean the free advice should be abused. Before posting what could be an obvious or oft-repeated question on the boards, take the time to do a quick Google search. Many care sheets and basic info can be found in less time than it would take to make a post. Or, you could always…
3. Use the forum’s SEARCH function! The amount of information on Arachnoboards it staggering. Chances are, if you have a question, it’s been answered somewhere before. Always use the search function first to see if you can quickly answer your own question. It’s easy, it’s quick, and it keeps the boards from being cluttered with questions that have been asked dozens of times before.
Use the search function in the upper right corner before posting.
4. Beware of the “hot” topics! There are a few topics that can soon turn the boards into a battleground of dissenting arguments. Should you hold your tarantula, or does it endanger the animal? Should you supply water bowls, or is that a waste of time? Should you use expensive cages, or make your own cheaper ones? Do you have the experience to safely own an old world T? These are some of the topics that divide hobbyists and send tempers flying. You’ve been warned…
5. Identify those with experience and pay attention! It doesn’t take long to figure out which members have years of experience and valuable information to share. Pay attention to what these guys and gals say, as you will likely glean plenty of useful information from their posts and responses.
6. Use thescientific names! There are just too many species of tarantulas with way too many overlapping “common” names for hobbyists to keep straight. Just look up “white knee” and see how many species this name may apply to. Scientific names provide a convenient, accurate, and common language for hobbyist to use so that species aren’t confused.
Arachnoboards is a wonderful community for anyone interested in the tarantula keeping hobby, and should be a frequent stop for the serious enthusiast. Hope to see you on the boards!
When folks try to tell me that there there is no such thing as a “beautiful tarantula”, I have a few go-to species that I will immediately Google. Besides the P. metallica and C. cyaneopubescens, I also pull up photos of the tarantula featured in this blog, the M. balfouri. These gorgeous spiders sport creamy tan bodies, metallic blue/silver carapaces, and blue legs, and are a stunning representation of just how striking blue coloration on a T can be.
My female M. balfouri, now a young adult.
This gorgeous spider comes from a group of islands off the coast of Africa of which Socotra is the largest, hence its common name of Socotra Island Blue Baboon. Although they’ve become much more established in the hobby, they are still in demand, commanding premium prices. I got my juveniles for $60 each as part of a newsletter promotion. Expect to pay up to $100 for the same size elsewhere. I’ve seen females of this species selling for $300, so this can be a pricey pet.
This 2″ juvenile is starting to show some of its blue coloration. I’m hoping to see more blue on the legs after its next molt.
M. balfouri care
I housed my three 1,75″ juveniles in medium (5″ x 6″h x 8″l) critter keepers with about four inches of bone dry cocofiber substrate. I provided all three with small water bowls, which they usually fill up with dirt or web over. This species will burrow, creating a maze of underground tunnels with several entrances. They are also prolific webbers, and all three of mine have laid down a thick, silky carpet over much the substrate. As this species comes from a semi-desert environment, I do not mist the enclosure or moisten the substrate; the water bowl is sufficient.
Now that my female is about 3.75″ DLS, she will be getting a rehousing very soon. The next transfer will likely be the final one, and she will be getting a 3-4 gallon Sterilite enclosure with about 6″ of substrate (60/40 mix of dry top soil and peat).
A top down view of an M. balfouri’s enclosure. Notice the thick webbing.
The growth rate for my M. balfouris has been medium, with all three molting five times in my care over a 19-month period. Between molts, they picked up around .25 – .5″ of size or so. During their first two winters, when temps in my tarantula room were mid 70s during the day and dropped to low 70s at night, they mostly stayed in their tunnels as they fasted for a few months. During these periods, I rarely saw any of them, and I would drop a small cricket in once every two weeks and remove it if it wasn’t eaten by the next morning.
When the temps warm up (low 80s during the day, high 70s at night), and their metabolisms are more active and they eat great. I have noticed that they seem to prefer smaller prey, and I was feeding two small crickets or meal worms twice a week when they were juveniles. Now that they are sub-adults, they get two medium crickets a week. They refuse food when they are in premolt or during the slightly colder and drier winter months. During this time, they retreat to their tunnels and surface when the molt process has been completed or when the weather has warmed up.
Too much reading? Check out my husbandry video below!
This species is generally recognized for having a calmer, less defensive temperament, which could make it a good starter Old World species. Although they are more shy and reclusive than many their baboon cousins, they can still, in theory, deliver quite a bite. Mine generally bolt into one of their many tunnel entrances at the slightest disturbance, and not one has shown any defensiveness. However, that can always change with age, and temperament differs from specimen to specimen. Always use care when working with old world species.
Although I’ve read of instances where this species can become a “pet hole”, spending the majority of its time in its den, mine are are actually visible quite often. Usually late afternoon, I can look forward to my three juveniles creeping out of their dens to sit on the surface for a while. They only seem to stay submerged when in promolt or during the colder winter months.
This juvenile is showing some of the gorgeous blue on its legs after a recent molt.
Although I’ve yet to try to breed any of my tarantulas, the M. balfouri is high on my list when I do. Unlike most other Ts, M. balfouri mothers will actually nurture their spiderlings, killing prey and dragging it into the den to feed them. A search of balfouri breeding and parenting will bring up some fascinating stories about M. balfouri mothering, and most breeders have more success when they leave the sacs in with the mother. It doesn’t get much cooler than that.
Those looking for a gorgeous old world tarantula with beautiful coloration and relatively simple husbandry requirements should look no further than the M. balfouri. Their calmer temperaments also make them a good, if pricey, introduction species for those new to old worlds.
With several of my tarantulas reaching adult sizes, I found it was time to do some enclosure shopping. As I stated in an earlier blog, I use a variety of enclosures, including DIY and premium, professionally-made varieties. Premium enclosures can be costly, and when you have 50 or so Ts, you could end up spending more on the homes than you do on the animals. That said, I do have tarantulas that I consider worthy “showcase animals” that I like to show off to visitors. For these specimens, I don’t mind splurging for classier enclosures.
I had discovered Reptile-Enclosure.com last year while looking for large acrylic enclosures for my Ts. When I was first pricing cages on the site, I discovered the majority of the sizes were no longer in stock, and I wrongly assumed the company was no longer in business. In actuality, Reptile Enclosure.com is owned and run by Lorex Plastics Co, a plastics company that makes reptile and tarantula cages during the slow seasons. For those interested in these enclosures, this is something to keep in mind.
As luck would have it, I stumbled on Lorex’s eBay listing for two of their enclosures, and decided to check out the site again. I was ecstatic to discover that almost all of the sizes and types were in stock, and they were definitely still in business.
Lorex offers several types of enclosures, including arboreal and terrestrial varieties, as well as front-loading and hinged topped designs. For tarantulas, I specifically looked at the 3 mm Series, which includes convenient 2 gallon, 5 gallon, 7 gallon, and 12 gallon sizes.
I ordered three of the 5 gallon enclosures, which measure 17″ x 9″ h x 8″w and retail for $47.50 before shipping. Also, Lorex offers a 15% discount if you buy three or more cages of the same size, so I was afforded those savings as well. I phoned to ask a couple questions about my order, and spoke to Ed. Communication was excellent, and Ed was very friendly and helpful via phone and email.
My order was shipped promptly, and as Lorex is located just on the other side of my state, they arrived via UPS in a day. I always worry when I order acrylic cages, as I know how unforgiving the shipping process can be. However, my new enclosures were packed so well, nothing was going to harm them in transit. Each of the three cages was wrapped in five or six layers of bubble wrap, then individually boxed. These three boxes were then packed into another larger box for added protection. Wow.
One BIG box filled with three of Lorex’s 5 gallon enclosures
Each enclosure came wrapped in bubble wrap and in its own box.
I was very pleased to discover that each enclosure was wrapped in 5-6 layers of bubble wrap.
The cages themselves are well-constructed and just gorgeous. Each top-hinged door has a lip that overhangs the front and locks with a hasp. As these can be used for reptiles as well, they’ve been designed to have a 1/2″ of clearance beneath the bottom to allow for an under the tank heat mat (note: do not use heat mats for Ts). I love the look of the aluminum vents, although I’ll have to keep an eye on them as some terrestrial Ts have been known to chew through wire.
My only nit-picky issue is that the vents are not glued or otherwise permanently affixed to the cage, but this is a very small issue. I do love the position of the vents, as they allow for a deeper level of substrate than some of my other cages afford. The enclosures also feel very solid and sturdy, which is great.
5 gallon Lorex Acrylic Enclosure. Notice the lip and locking hasp.
I definitely recommend Lorex acrylic enclosures for anyone looking for a premium cage to display one or more of their prized tarantulas. They come in a number of convenient sizes, they are wonderfully constructed, and even with shipping, the prices are lower than other comparable acrylic enclosures sold elsewhere. Customer service was top notch, and Ed at Lorex was a pleasure to deal with. I’m already eyeing a couple of the 12-gallon versions for when my L. parahybana and P. antinous get a bit larger.
When I purchased my P. antinous a few months ago, it was partly because I had read that they were voracious eaters who made huge size gains between molts. As I have enjoyed watching my female ravage any prey items dropped into her cage, I already knew that she was a lively eater. But what would the next molt bring? Would she really make a huge size jump?
The answer is a big HECK YES.
After a few week long pre-molt period, and another week in her den as her new exoskeleton hardened up, my P. antinous female finally reemerged this morning. To say the change in appearance and size is profound would be an understatement. Gone are the rusty red/brown tones she sported before entering promolt. She now sports the dark gray/blue colors that lend her the common name of Steely Blue. Her abdomen is also covered with some very striking red hairs which prove a wonderful contrast to the rest of her body.
My 3.5″ P. antinous female. (before a recent molt)
As for size, when I originally purchased this female, she was a hair over 3.5′. Although I haven’t been able to get an exact measurement yet, she is now definitely 5″ or more. The size change is astounding; the claims about huge size gains are not in the least exaggerated. She is gorgeously leggy and moves like lightning when disturbed.
My female P. antinous after her recent molt. She went from around 3.5″ to about 5″.
She has already had her first post-molt meal, a large dubia roach, and I’m sure she’ll continue to be a great eater. Now that I’ve seen the growth for myself, I can’t wait to see what the next molt brings.
It’s been Tarantula Molt Central here, with 14 of my Ts molting in the past week (and several more in premolt). The 80º+ temps in my tarantula room have even my slowest growers sporting new skins, and it’s been amazing getting to watch several go though the long, exhausting process of molting.
Since getting my Brachypelma boehmei (Mexican Fire Leg) in January of this year, I’ve been eagerly awaiting the first molt. The collector I bought it from admitted that the poor girl had taken a fall a few months before I purchased her, and although there was no visible damage, I worried that there might be something wrong internally. Still, for months, she ate like a champ, relentless chasing prey across her enclosure and quickly devouring her meals. When her pre-molt fasting began, I kept an eager eye out for the result.
My B. boehmei on her back as she prepares for a molt. Many inexperienced keepers have thought their pets dead when they see them like this.
A week ago, I watched as she laid down a molting mat and flipped over to start the long process. Six hours later, she sported a new, much more vibrant skin suit…
…and a nasty-looking bald spot on her abdomen. Apparently my fears about her fall having internal consequences weren’t unfounded (although it could be a coincidence). The spot is a pale orange in color and about 6mm across. It definitely looks as if there was some damage in this area, as the edges are uneven and a bit crusty, leading to the imperfect molt.
My B. boehmei in the act of molting (the exuvia is on the left, the T on the right)
My B. boehmei sporting a new suit.
I held my breath as I waited to see if she would pull through, or if this defect would prove life-threatening. So far, so good. Although the spot looks nasty, she is moving around fine and seems to be hardening up nicely. I will be careful when feeding her to be sure that she doesn’t get too distended, which could put too much pressure on this potentially weak spot in her abdomen.
The bald spot on the abdomen, I’m guessing, is from an internal injury caused by a fall.
Hopefully, my girl’s next molt, which I suspect wont come for several months, will go smoothly and she’ll lose this nasty patch. I plan on trying to feed her soon, and I will post how it goes.
Okay, I know I already posted a short video featuring this same O. philippinus (Philippine Tangerine) in the process of dragging a cricket into its den, but this time I caught the entire “hunt.” Even better, my juvenile O. philippinus actually completely emerged from its den for a few seconds.
Now, I’m fortunate in that my other O. philippinus constructed a den down the side of its enclosure, so I get to see him all of the time. Still, for this other specimen who usually comes out only at night when I’m in bed, this was pretty special.
Note: This species requires moist substrate, so I periodically moisten the coco fiber to keep it comfortable. The majority of of the water percolates through the substrate, keeping the lower levels (where its den is) moist. The water on the side evaporates before morning. I had applied water shortly before this video was shot.
Part of the fun of keeping tarantulas, in my opinion, is the endless search for the perfect “found enclosure.” Sure, there are many gorgeous and professionally-designed cages to choose from, and they make lovely displays for any showcase Ts that you are particularly fond of. However, those with large collections can find housing all of their beloved spiders in these top-of-the-line terrariums much too expensive. That’s why many enthusiasts haunt their local WalMarts, Targets, craft stores, and Family Dollar’s looking for various canisters and containers that can be used “off label” as make-shift tarantula cages.
Sterilite has produced dozens of types of plastic storage containers over the years, and their products have long been used by budget-conscious T enthusiasts hoping to keep costs down as their collections expand. They offer containers in a ridiculous number of sizes, making them ideal for any larger T. And with prices often as low as $1.99 for smaller sizes, they won’t hurt the wallet as much.
I recently discovered their series of lockable and stackable storage containers, and was delighted to learn that they come in a number of convenient sizes. Instead of just drilling holes this time, which definitely works but is tedious and, in my opinion, not as attractive, I decided to use vents. The following is a little step-by-step tutorial for those interested.
NOTE: I know that some folks will argue that drilling holes is a bit cheaper (the vents I’m using her will run you an extra $1.90 or so per cage) or more attractive. Still, I like the look of these, and I find the vents less tedious to install. I also have plenty of enclosures with drilled or melted air holes, so I have NO problem with these.
Here are several sizes of storage boxes (as well as a plastic canister that I will modify later). These are wonderful, as they stack quite nicely, saving space. I purchased these at WalMart, but they can also be found in Target (although their selection hasn’t been as good).
2. Get Some Aquarium-safe silicone.
Next, you will need aquarium silicone, which dries non-toxic. For those with hot glue guns, those will work as well. I allow three days for a full cure.
3. Get 2″ round plastic vents.
Vents of this type can be found through several online vendors. I purchased these at roundvents.com. I like the plastic ones, as I worry that a large T could chew through the wire ones.
4. Grab a 2″ Black & Decker (cheap!) hole saw.
To drill the holes, you will need a 2″ hole saw. If you don’t have one, Black & Decker makes a cheap set that includes the 2″ saw for under $10. I found this one at my local WalMart.
5. Clamp the container down before drilling.
Again, you can probably have someone hold the container while you drill, but I have the clamps handy, so I use them. Notice the piece of wood underneath, which gives you something to drill in. You can also use the circle created by earlier drillings to line up the hole.
6. Carefully drill your holes.
Mark the entry point for the guide bit with a Sharpie to keep the hole centered. When drilling, don’t push too hard and allow the drill to do its work. Be careful that the bit doesn’t heat up too much, as if it does, it can melt the plastic. Use a piece of wood underneath to drill into and for support.
7. After drilling the holes, clean edges with a utility knife.
Unfortunately, the drilling process can leave behind some gnarly and an sharp pieces of plastic around the edges. Use a utility knife to carefully trim away these scraps and make for a clean fit.
8. Put a thin bead of silicone (or hot glue) around the rim of the vent.
Run a nice, thin bead of aquarium safe silicone around the lip of the the vent. Although the vents sport tabs that help “lock” them in place, the silicone seals it up and makes it permanent. Hot glue can also be used, meaning the enclosure could be used sooner as you won’t have to wait for the silicone to cure.
8. Line up the vent and carefully pop it in.
Now, line up the vent and carefully pop it in. I like to do one side facing up and one side facing down. Use a moist paper towel to clean up any excess silicone. I put a vent in two opposite sides of the the container to allow for cross ventilation.
9. Newly vented cages stacked in a cluttered garage.
Several of the newly-vented enclosures. The large one on the bottom will be fitted with 4″ vents.
10. Modified cages in use.
A couple of my earlier enclosures, already occupied. The top enclosure does NOT have vents. For that one, I used a nail heated on a burner to melt the holes into it.
A small note about ventilation: I find that the 2″ vents work very well with this size enclosure. However, after noticing some condensation collecting on the lid of one of my cages after moistening the substrate, I added a row of holes in the lid above the sphagnum moss to allow for a bit more airflow. The moss stays moist, but I no longer get the condensation. Still, I’ve only done this to one enclosure that housed a T that required more moisture.
I recently acquired a trio of juvenile/sub-adult H. incei golds, and I immediately discovered what a truly beautiful and interesting species they are. These lively little dwarfs sport gorgeous gold and orange tones that make them wonderful display spiders. They also like to decorate their enclosures with copious amounts of thick webbing, making them one of the more prolific webbers of the species I keep.
One of my H. incei golds after being housed. Not the best picture, as the flash has washed out it’s colors.
All three have been excellent eaters, snatching medium crickets from the mouths of their burrows with lightning speed. Although they were furnished with identical enclosures with cork barks and starter burrow holes dug into the substrate, only two of my H. incei golds adopted these as homes. Both of these two dug deep burrows before lining the opening of their dens in a liberal coating of silk.
The third built what I can best describe as a silken teepee over its cork bark hide. This specimen did not dig, but instead sits on the surface, sometimes beneath its hide, waiting for prey. It makes for a wonderful showcase animal, as it is more often than not visible. It is this T that is featured in the feeding video.
A modified Ziploc container. This H. incei dug a deep burrow; the circle marks the lower chamber.
I keep my H. incei golds in the same temperatures as my other Ts; high 70s during the day with low 70s at night. I also keep the substrate for these guys on the moist side (not wet), by sprinkling water on the surface twice a week. They are currently eating one medium cricket every three or four days.
While feeding my surface-dwelling incei, I decided to get a bit of video with my cell phone. Below is a brief clip of my little guy snatching up a cricket. My apologies for the raucous soundtrack; it is covering up my daughter telling me a story in the background. 🙂
For lovers of dwarf tarantula species, or even just those who want a gorgeous, heavy-webbing T, the H. incei gold makes a wonderful pet.
Tom's Big Spiders 